Coverage of International Women's Day

International Women's Day fell on March 8th of this month so I covered an event thrown by the US embassy at the National Museum in its honor for Yemen Today. You can read about the event below:

International Women’s Day, Brought to You by Sana’a
On March 8th of every year since its recognition by the UN 1975, women in various regions of the world are acknowledged for their achievements as individuals who are making positive contributions to the welfare and progress of their society. The connotations of this day are significant on an international scale, but for women living in countries where the acquisition of the most basic of human rights is a struggle, International Women’s Day is an emblem not only of what has been achieved, but of what can be.
Nowhere else is this more relevant than in Yemen, where women are making bold strides in the midst of a country that earned the lowest ranking in gender inequality out of the 130 countries cited in the 2008 World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap report. To properly commemorate the occasion the US Embassy co-organized an event with the group Kuni wa Kun (a youth-led initiative) at the National Museum on Monday, March 8, 2010. The celebration centered on the recognition of six outstanding Yemeni women, but also included an art gallery displaying unique pieces either by or in honor of women and women’s rights, in addition to a musical performance.
Doors opened at 8:30am and speeches commenced at 9:00am, beginning with Amal al-Ashtal of Kuni wa Kuni who provided a brief statement on International Women’s Day and its relation to Yemeni society and youth. She was followed by Abdul Aziz al-Jindari, director of the National Museum, who spoke of the status of women throughout ancient history in correlation with the museum’s anticipated exhibit featuring Yemen's ancient queens: Arwa, Balqees, and Saba'a.
Angie Bryan, Deputy Chief of Mission at the US embassy, provided the keynote speech, briefly touching on the history of International Women’s Day and connecting it to women’s rights in Yemen at present. She mentioned areas of concern in Yemen, but also provided examples of progress, citing quotes by United States President Obama, introducing initiatives on the part of USAID, and honoring six women who’ve displayed exceptional leadership and initiative in furthering women’s rights in Yemen with a certificate of "Courage," signed by U.S. Ambassador to Yemen Stephen Seche. The women recognized included:
Nujood al-Ahdal, who was married at 9 years of age to a man three times that who inflicted emotional and physical abuse. She sought human rights lawyer, Shada Nasser, who represented Nujood in court where she was granted a divorce.
Reem al-Numery, at 12 years old, was forced to marry her 30-year-old cousin and was also able to achieve a divorce from the Yemeni Court System.
Tawakul Karman, Chairman of the NGO "Women Journalists without Chains," works in defense of freedom of the press and human rights in Yemen. Additionally, she is the only women out of the 13 members on the "Shura Council" of the Islah party, and the first activist to launch in 2007 the "Phase of Protests and Sit-ins" in Yemen.
Arwa Ali Saeed Abdullah, who at 10 years of age, lost both of her legs in a land mine accident while roaming the hillsides of her city, works with Yemen's Association of Landmine Survivors as an advocate for the victims of landmines.
Fatima al-Agel, a woman who has been striving to defend the rights of disabled girls for more than 17 years, established the first school for blind females in 1995. She founded the Al Amaan Foundation for Disabled Females' Care in 1995 and currently works with some 800 females across Yemen to integrate disabled girls into schools, universities and the workforce.
Jamala al-Baidhani founded the Altahade Association for Disabled Females to help girls with disabilities in Yemen. Despite disabilities of her own, she earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Social Sciences and in 2006, launched the Alesrar NGO for Youth Development, which enlists volunteers to work on behalf of disabled people.
Once the speeches were concluded, Angie Bryan and Abdul Aziz initiated the opening of the art gallery officially by cutting the ribbon draped across the entrance. The gallery held various exhibits, including paintings, miniatures of traditional customs and practices, silver work, and caricatures. The artists featured included:
Jumana al-Shami, Areej al-Eryani, Ali al-Ma’abari, Howaida al-Kibsi, Sara al-Sami’i, Kamal Sharaf, Arwa al-Yarimi, and Nawal al-Mutwakil.

Oh, Yemen

Today was a good day. One that reminded me how much I do love Yemen and how, despite times of frustration, I could see myself living here for a longer period of time than planned.
My friend Marwa had myself, Kim and a mutual friend, Amal, over to her house for lunch today. Marwa pulled out all the spreads and served us a very impressive meal. After which we went to the the only bowling ally in Sana'a (and quite possibly in Yemen) and had a good laugh as we all pulled out our own bowling techniques.
After bowling, Kim and I then headed to a Yemeni professor's home on the outskirts of Sana'a University. Every Thursday from 4-9 he opens his house to Yemeni intellectuals, artists, and the like to join his family and provide a gateway to those in the foreign community. There is conversation, live music, poetry readings, and room for whatever else you care to express. Today there were folks from America, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, France, and Italy. Many continue to appear to the occasion week after week and I understand why. The relaxed atmosphere, opportunity to meet new people, local and foreign alike, the good food (sambosas-warm pastry filled with meat, vegetables and spices, plus date cookies, tea, etc.), provide a cozy surrounding reminiscent of that I get from family and friends at home. People range in age from youth to the elderly with a few children present.
As mentioned in a prior post, I've done well for myself in Yemen in terms of making it a home. I've been able to establish myself in the traditions here, I know the transportation system and general location of things, I've set up a friend base both local and foreign and become secure in the opportunities available to me (journalism, volunteering, tutoring, etc.).
I'm facing the same reality as the one at the end of my stay in Palestine: that I have a supportive and interesting community and life set up for myself, and people, adventures, and opportunities that I'll shortly be leaving behind.
The fact that this time around I will be coming home has been weighing on my mind and while I am in desperate need of a break, I wonder how long I will be able to stay country bound before longing to catch the next wind. I'm already trying to make a possible trip in September to the area as some good friends of mine in Israel will be having a baby this summer, two in Jordan will be getting married at this time, and one in Palestine keeps reminding me of how I didn't have time to properly say goodbye and therefore, owe them a visit.
I'm hoping I can make this happen, especially since I'd also like to revisit Dar Meir Musa in Syria for some spiritual rejuvenation. While I'm so grateful for all the wonderful people that have touched my life in my travels, the geographical distance that will continue to grow in the next week is a big downer.
There is so much to digest, not just from Yemen, but from Palestine and Israel as well. Right now, I'm too preoccupied with closing things up here, seeing friends, and tying off work to allow that to happen. Actually, I don't think its possible to fully let the experience settle as of yet since I'm still in it. The airplane ride back will certainly be an interesting one I'm sure.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to wrap up a proposal to the European Commission, do a little shopping in the Old City, head off to my friend Huda's home for dinner and an Arab movie night, then try to prepare myself for my last day in Yemen.

Yemen Today Magazine Website

It occurred to me that I never put up the link for the magazine I work for as a freelance journalist. This month two of my articles are featured on the main web page of Yemen Today (directly under the rotating pictures to the left) under the labels 7 and 9.
http://www.yemen-today.com/go/

Education in Yemen: A Blank Page

Here's an article I wrote for Yemen Today Magazine on education in Yemen:
It was Aristotle who said, “All who have meditated on the art of governing mankind have been convinced that the fate of empires depends on the education of youth.” Education enables social progress and reform and remains the most reliable catalyst of change. It teaches society to organize its resources and priorities, therefore allowing it to navigate its way in the direction of its choosing. In this day and age, being denied an education is not only damaging to an individual on a personal level, but translates to the society as a whole.
Every nation houses a ratio of individuals that lack a proper education, and while this number fluctuates depending on the area in question, in Yemen, with an adult literacy rate of 54% according to USAID, it seems that those possessing a solid education are the exception, not the rule. In addition to low numbers in participation, especially in regards to females whose attendance rate is only 45% in primary school and 15% secondary school, the quality of the educational content received is also in question.
There are two types of educational systems in Yemen, government funded schools (equivalent to public schools) and non-government funded schools (equivalent to private schools). I spoke with two employees of Shebab Net Radio Station, Mohammed Al-Selwi, Manager, and Sherine Al-Aghabri Assistant Manager and Program Representative, to get some feedback on the educational system from those still closely involved in the area. Shebab Net is an internet based broadcasting company that focuses on a variety of social issues, but puts emphasis on those surrounding education. Mohammed feels there is a significant difference between governmental versus non-governmental schools. “Teachers get paid more so they have money for more resources and are more motivated to teach,” he explained. “There are also more activities, more opportunities to study lab sciences, more libraries and a larger network of computers.” Sherine feels that the “smaller teacher to student ratio and more focused learning environment” are the main differences between the two institutions. Both felt that while parents pay more to send their students to non-governmental institutions, even these schools are decreasing their standards with time.
A teacher at a local governmental Middle school in Sana’a referred to as Khalid under his request to remain anonymous, holds similar views and feels that the corrupt nature of the system is mostly to blame. “Corruption happens in all of the governmental schools, but also in the non-governmental institutions, just in a slightly different way. In most of the private schools there is not an honest educational system, the real goal is investment. You can imagine what kind of education you will get when this is the goal.”
Referring more in depth to the issue of corruption, Khalid continued to explain that the administration that heads his school has little to no experience in their current positions. “The directors of the school don’t have experience; they got their position because they have a good relationship with a shake or figure of authority.” He explained that when he visits most schools he feels as though, “It’s a school for one family from the perspective of administration because the staff and teachers are all from the same family or party or tribe or have a mutual friend of importance. It’s impossible for someone to become the director unless they have a relationship with someone of importance and share the same ideas as that person.”
Khalid, very passionate about the issue, mentioned that in addition to lacking an administration with any experience, the government does not have enough facilities to meet the needs of the students. “The problem is the crowded schools, imagine if in one class there were over 100 students. How can 100 students learn in 40 minutes or from one teacher?” Khalid continued to explain that under such circumstances, both he and the students get frustrated with one another as he wants the students to be attentive and engaged while the students, young and without a proper structure, just want to play. He mentioned, “I’m very lucky to only have between 50 and 54 students in my class.” Apparently, because his school is one of the higher ranking in Sana’a, they are able to attain more government support than most, allowing them to have reduced class sizes in comparison to other schools.
Sherine and Mohammed from Shebab Net only supported Khalid’s statements. “Not all the teachers are experienced in what they teach; they need to be more qualified. In Yemen, it’s like anyone can teach with no real qualifications,” reported Sherine. In addition to the lack of qualifications and experience, she continued to tell me that often, teachers are suppose to teach a certain amount of material within a designated time frame, such as a certain amount of chapters in the class book per year, but often fail to meet this standard. Mohammed added that, “There’s no one monitoring teachers in the school system here so they don’t do their job since no one is there to keep them in check.”
Teaching methods in Yemen or lack there of, often require youth to educate themselves, but with limited resources and motivation, the results are not uplifting. “In middle school science books,” Sherine described, “there’s no information inside of them. There are mostly pictures and questions, but when the students ask the teachers about the missing information they say it’s intended to be this way because the teachers want the students to go and look for the information themselves, but this isn’t always possible.”
Furthermore, when students do get the opportunity to learn, teaching methods fail to take a hands on approach. “Subjects like computer science are taught with books instead of actual computers due to a shortage of supplies,” explained Mohammed. “One month, when I was attending Abdul Nasser High School, ranked as one of the best schools in Yemen, we only had one lab science class a month and when we did finally go, we didn’t do anything. The lab was exactly the same as the normal science class.” He emphasized his frustration with the inadequacy of the school system in Yemen by telling me how he was helping his nephew with his math homework and realized the math book he was learning from hadn’t been updated in 21 years.
Concerning as this information may be, these experiences are coming from individuals that reside inside Sana’a, a well developed city in Yemen compared to the structure that exists in the rural areas, where 80% of the population takes residence. If resources and teaching qualifications are suffering to this degree in the city, it can only be assumed that the problems are magnified in areas where communication, transportation, and resources are in greater scarcity.
Overwhelmed by the large obstacles which seem to permeate the school system in Yemen, I moved on to the more focused issue of school supplies, asking Khalid if schools provide books for students. “Not always,” he answered, “A lot of students complain that they don’t have books. At beginning of the school year all the students pay a small sum covering registration fees and books, however not all receive the books they pay for. Often, if students register late then they won’t receive books.” He estimates that around 15-20% of students don’t receive books and must buy from outside sources, but this is expensive and not usually feasible. In Sherine and Mohammed’s experience, they usually had to buy their books from outside sources which, was often expensive and the books could be a challenge to locate.
Other issues, such as parental support, are also a factor. Khalid feels that in general, parents want their students to get an education. Sherine partially agreed, stating that, “If parents are educated then they’ll push their children to receive an education as well. If parents aren’t educated they tend to only encourage their sons to go to school until they can read and write, but after that school is no longer seen as important. I feel this has encouraged youth to not care about education.”
In addition to all these factors, Sherine and Mohammed informed me that if a student doesn’t do well in school and can’t get into a college because their grades aren’t adequate, that student can buy their way into a university. Apparently this is a common occurrence which negatively affects the caliber of University participants as well as the general academic atmosphere while decreasing competition. Mohammed furthered this point by saying that “Because of this, often people in high positions, such as doctors and engineers, don’t really know what they’re doing. As a result there’s a lack of trust between the community and these educated professionals.”
Khalid told me that, “A country’s educational system is like a headline for the society as a whole. If there’s a decent educational system, there tends to be good health care, security, and so on also in place.” If Yemen’s overall progress in its various sectors of society is any reflection of the success of its educational system, then education is screaming for attention. Is anyone listening?

Navigating Yemen

In the event that you or someone you know might visit Sana’a in the near future, here’s a little info on the public transportation system in Yemen. Basically, there are two options for maneuvering within the city: taxis and dubabs.
A taxi is self explanatory in its title. In Yemen, most taxis are white with yellow painted onto all four corners of the car. This color taxis does not have a meter or “ad-dud” so you have to barter for a price. Other taxis with a meter come in red and yellow or completely yellow. The bonus of a taxi with a meter is usually they know the location of the place you want to go.
Let me explain that most taxi drivers only work as such part time, most work in other fields, but are either unable to find employment in their profession or only do so part time because their profession alone is not a substantial income so those lucky enough to have the means will drive a taxi.
Red or completely yellow taxis work for companies (whereas as yellow and white taxis are self employed), so they tend to have a better conception of where things are. I never take these however, since most of the time the meter has been tampered with so you end up getting overcharged.
If you’re a foreigner and you barter with a yellow and white taxi, the driver will almost always try to overcharge by at least double. This is why I barter before getting into the taxi, never after. A ten minute cab ride usually costs around 200 rials (though sometimes you have to make more that one attempt) or about $1.00. A 15-20 minute cab ride will cost around 250-350 rials ($1.25-$1.50).
Some cars will say they’re taxis, but have no color distinction. These are not taxis, do not get in them. Some cars will also try to pull over with a driver and another person (man) in the front seat. Whether they have a color distinction or not, do not get in them.
A dubab is a minivan (a very mini van, just an fyi) that is as close to a bus as you’ll get in Sana’a. They will pull over at any point and are labeled by color, number, and area (for instance Bab al-Yemen, etc.). Their exact route, however, will only become known when you become a frequent rider as the streets of Sana’a are a maze and so are the routes they take. The typical dubab price is 20 rials (10 cents) and it will take you a far distance. You do feel somewhat like a sardine as these minivans will cram as many people inside as possible.
As a foreign woman I get a little more leeway, but normally Yemeni women sit together without men next to them and in the back of the minivan. I found this statement funny after writing it because it makes it seem like there’s a proper front and back to these dubabs, but there isn’t.
I try to take dubabs as frequently as possible, but sometimes my destination is either unknown to myself (especially for when I do interviews for Yemen Today Magazine) or not on a main road in which case I’m forced to take a taxi. Either way, in Sana’a, your destination is never that far away, though it may be well hidden, but ask enough people and eventually you’ll get where you need to be.

A Culture of Corruption

Here's an article on corruption I finished for the Yemen Today Magazine, for those who are interested:

Corruption, in its various forms and degrees, drifts through the fabric of nations without prejudice, its dynamic nature making it just as hard to define as to quantify. Vague definitions include that such as the one provided by Transparency International as, “the abuse of entrusted power for private gain.” Merriam-Webster defines corruption simply as, “the impairment of integrity, virtue, or moral principle.” While these definitions require more detail to do the concept justice, citizens of Yemen are well aware of its meaning. I have yet to run into a Yemeni that does not believe that corruption is a rampant component of their society.
I consulted Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami, Vice Chancellor at the International University of Technology Twintech, an economist and vice Chairman of Non-governmental of Adviser for the Republic of Yemen, to gain more insight into what appears to be a culture of corruption. Hearing stories from the Yemeni people and witnessing, myself, acts of corruption on such a frequent basis, I addressed the issue of its prevalence to Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami. “You can’t have figures on corruption, only judgments so it’s a difficult concept quantify.” He does believe that there is a direct correlation between poverty, a low standard of living, and corruption. “There’s no doubt corruption is widespread in Yemen due to the low standard of life and low wages. People desire a higher standard of living so they seek out alternative resources and use their position to manipulate others.”
To emphasize how difficult it is to measure corruption, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami discussed the newly created Anti-Corruption Committee in Yemen. The committee is supported by the World Bank and includes 16 members of civil society organizations from surrounding governorates including Sana’a, Aden, Taiz, Marib, Shabwah and al-Jawf. “While there have been many complaints presented to this committee, we have no cases from them to the court to this day. This is because this is very difficult issue to fight when the standard of life is low and enforcement of the law is not implemented.”
Yemen is the poorest country in the Middle East with 40% of the population living under the poverty line (CITE). The World Bank cites only 40% of the population has access to electricity, though this decreases to 20% in rural areas where nearly 80% of the population takes residence. Unemployment rates have reached 35% and the youth pool is rapidly growing at an average birthrate of 6.7 children (Médecins Du Monde). The GNI per capita in Yemen is $870 and will only continue to be negatively effected as oil revenues are on the decline due to both global issues effecting changes in pricing and the depletion of the reserve itself. With all these factors taken into consideration, no resource to replace oil profits, a water crisis, a power shortage, and an array of other issues stunting its progress, there’s no denying the critical situation Yemen faces and the reality that poverty and corruption could also be on the incline.
These obstacles are overwhelming and while they have been mounting over the years, the poverty inflicting the country is nothing new. “Yemeni society has been suffering from poverty for centuries,” emphasized Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami, “and when it exists for extended periods of time it changes the people, it makes poverty a part of the culture. People are fighting to survive and you can’t change this mindset unless you change the phenomenon itself.” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami spoke of the affect it has on a son to watch his father struggle throughout his life in order to make a living to support his family. Whether this is achieved through legal means, illegal means, or not achieved at all, it has an affect on his children who do not benefit from nor positively reflect the often shameful channels taken in the interest of survival. Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami feels that this scene has become the norm in Yemen and is eating away at its humanity.
People have an idea of what their life should look like and if the reality does not match the image they often resort to other means to elevate their conditions. This occurs more frequently in difficult economic situations and tends to breed unethical behavior, though the person directly involved most likely does not view their actions as such, but as a means of survival in an environment that offers no other option.
Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami expanded on this concept. “I presented, years ago, a lecture to the donor community on the market of terrorism in Yemen and one of my arguments was that we have more than one billion poor Muslims seeking normal employment, but if they don’t find it in the regular market and someone offers them another opportunity, even if its illegal (pertaining to drugs or terrorism, for instance), he will take it.” He explained further, “Salaries are low paying, unemployment is high, families have at least five children, add qat to the mix and you get the reality of the situation here.”
In continuation, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami explained that this behavior occurs in governmental and non-governmental institutions and that because the law is not enforced such activities are customary. “Yemenis are religious people and they know when they are doing something immoral, even if they believe they have no other option,” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami concluded by adding that “Ethics do not come into play until after a secure system has been established.” Considering this, one has to wonder the extent to which this affects the psyche of an individual; to be forced into behaviors one looks down upon in order to secure a place in society.
So what is the solution? I asked Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami with a half formed smile, aware of the magnitude of what I was asking. “Change the environment of poverty,” he responded, wearing a smile of his own. “Some people think we must start with the political framework, I believe political change needs an infrastructure first. There needs to be an infrastructure for democracy, otherwise it becomes easy to manipulate and can turn against change itself. This is what happened in Yemen. Many people in the parliament are uneducated and tribal. These people have power and drive the laws and norms so how can change happen?” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami feels that overthrowing the government has been a tactic of the past, but has failed to change society in the long term. “My research has shown that changing people’s economic situation will change their life overall. This creates a modern infrastructure for real and prospective change. Once things like education and health care are strengthened, the rest will follow and a structure of law will develop.”
While Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami raises good points, it is overwhelming to think of the extent to which this change would have to manifest itself. In addition to the issues already listed, there are other hindrances to development. Isolation of the rural community due in part to the lack of infrastructure is one element, accompanied by a deficiency in developed social services. The widespread use of qat creates its own set of challenges for Yemen. Exhaustion of water reserves is already a concern, but the cultivation of qat only intensifies the problem, consuming a troubling one third of extracted groundwater. Qat also contributes to increasing health problems and an overall decrease in productivity.
I’d heard rumors circulating that many Yemeni institutions intentionally keep the salaries of their educated employees low in order to maintain a standard of corruption. If those in the lower levels of an institution are forced to pursue illegal venues for financial gain, then it protects those at the top from persecution of their own illegal activities. While I have not been able to sufficiently explore this notion, I did present the idea to Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami. “No, I don’t believe that this is the case,” he replied, getting straight to the point. “Yemen’s GDP is 23 billion for a population of 22.4 million; the Yemeni government simply can’t provide decent salaries for people. When you take the government budget and compare it to the amount of government employees, they are unable to make satisfactory salaries for citizens. I don’t think the government is intentionally giving out low salaries to drive corruption because the government can’t offer high salaries due to the limited resources.”
While corruption is not unique to Yemen, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami stresses that because of Yemen’s dwindling resources, or the “small pot from which to pull from,” the effect of corruption is felt more significantly. Though Yemen is not alone in its plight between poverty and corruption, is there a point where the two become so saturated into society that the line dividing what is corrupt and what isn’t becomes unrecognizable by the people themselves? If so, Yemen is not yet there and my interactions with those who believe in a more sustainable future give faith that the extreme poverty and corruption that have infected the country will one day be dissolved.

Anticipation

I have been beyond busy these past two weeks trying to wrap up my life here in a way that I'm satisfied with. While the reality that I will be returning home after more than a year abroad is weighing on my mind, the process of closing all my commitments isn't giving me too much time to reflect. I've been scampering to finish magazine articles and interviews, wind things up with my job at MWF, plan my last teaching lessons for French, trying to find homes for my kittens (yes, they survived), and meet up with those whom have made my life here worthwhile.
In both Palestine/Israel and Yemen I have been able to attain solid communities for myself. Part of me regrets having to return to the States as I have so many amazing opportunities here and wonderful ties in both the Yemeni and foreign communities. When I look at what I'm accomplishing given my age and experience, I feel so fortunate.
I will say more as I get closer to my departure, but I am also looking forward to seeing my family and friends back home. Especially in the way of friends, I always knew how valuable mine were and how lucky I was to have them, but this experience has solidified my view of them as family. I have been phenomenally impressed by their efforts to keep involved in my life and I can't wait to share stories when I get back.
Nine days and counting...

Ignorance in High Places

At Media Women Forum, my position requires me to make connections with ambassadors, ministers, other nongovernmental organizations, representatives from various embassies and other organizations of the like. Usually, I try to communicate MWF's work and open the door for possible partnerships and funding opportunities. Most of this occurs during the work day at the office, lunch meetings or during visits to other organizations, but also at parties and dinners that tend to take place during the weekends. I usually meet some very interesting people during these events and have been able to forge relationships (especially with women) that would not have otherwise been feasible. Therefore, I can’t complain too much about the effort it takes for me to look past the discomfort that commonly crowds these scenarios.
The people who attend these parties often know two or three other people there which means they must forge out and make conversation with unknowns, but always accompanied by an agenda. It’s the agenda, the air of pretentiousness, and the awkward mingling reminiscent of a middle school dance floor during a slow song which summons my apprehension. Thankfully, for the sake of my job, I can gracefully navigate through these social situations without incurring too much damage along the way. Unfortunately, for every interesting individual at these functions there tend to be two or more not so time worthy folks who want nothing, but your time.
Last night, I got stuck in an interaction with a not so time worthy gentlemen, though thankfully not for too long as I am also well equipped with a variety of exit strategies well suited for an array of unique social entrapments. The man in question held a significant role at the Turkish Embassy and has been in Yemen for three months, but lived in Syria for three years prior to. He was telling me about how it was very difficult for him to make relationships with the Yemeni community. He also asked me basic questions a foreigner would ask, such as “am I paying too much for my apartment,” which he is by the way, by about double.
The conversation went on like this and I asked him how his Arabic was. In Yemen, a lot depends on who you know so if he was unable to barter with his renter he would need to have a Yemeni friend or even acquaintance help him out. He told me he was intermediate in fous-ha and was taking lessons as it would further his career goals, but had no interest in learning spoken Arabic.
For those who are unaware, written Arabic (known as fous-ha) is a different language than spoken Arabic (colloquial) and depending on which country you are in, spoken Arabic changes quite drastically. For instance, when I speak in a Palestinian dialect in Yemen no one understands a word I’m saying. There are even different dialects within the different regions of Yemen.
How someone can live in Syria for three years (a country where English is still not prevalent) and not be at least intermediate in spoken Arabic is beyond me. Though frankly, for the amount of time he spent there and the nature of his position he should be fluent by now. Hearing him say that he had no interest in learning the spoken dialect was when I pulled out exit strategy number 57, join the Yemeni women in the Sanani dances taking place which was made conveniently easy when Menal, one of the women there, offered me her hand right as the conversation took the plummet. However, I had to fight my urge to pull out exit strategy number 11, put to use those kickboxing skills I’ve been teaching the girls here.
This is a prime example of how many of the bigger organizations that are blessed with a significant amount of money, power, and influence, are so disconnected from the society they intend to help. NGOs have their issues, but not understanding the people isn’t one of them. No wonder he doesn’t have any Yemeni friends or connections and no wonder he’s overpaying for his apartment and who knows what else. Language is a portal, a door, a connection. How can he expect to really understand Yemen, its people and its various problems if he can’t even speak the language?
Educated people who have no excuse to possess this degree of ignorance are much more prevalent than I would like to admit and their ethnicities are international. Knowing that these people exist in such great numbers is beyond disappointing, but helps me understand why many foreign organizations, despite their desire to aid the population at hand, are often welcomed with apprehension by the natives.

Diversity in Yemen

Yemen is a land of much natural diversity and breathtaking architecture. From dry deserts to hot springs, seas, valleys, and mountains, there seems to be something for everyone. Unfortunately, many places in the North and South are off limits due to the political unrest that makes traveling there a significant risk. Nonetheless, I've managed to get around more than most, but I realized that despite the many places I'd traveled to I've been slacking on posting pictures. I will blame the exceedingly slow internet connection for my laziness. Uploading pictures is often a three day process. However, I did finally manage to post a few pictures chronicling my travels throughout the country on the album titled "The Many Sides of Yemen." Hopefully it will give you a more accurate perception of Yemen, at least visually.

The Secret Lives of Yemeni Women

Alright, for all you men out there I'm sure you're getting tired of my increasing emphasis on the female population in Yemen, but the women here are amazing on so many levels that I have to add a little more on the topic before slowing down.
Its no secret that the lives of women in Yemen are severely limited by their male counterparts, and sometimes by the female population itself. What is secret and in many ways, sacred, is how they persevere in a culture that refuses to acknowledge them as unique and capable individuals.
I was invited to a birthday party this weekend for a very progressive and well traveled Yemeni woman, but a Yemeni woman nonetheless. Her background was the reason for the diverse crowd that attended (all were young women living in Yemen, but originating from Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Turkey, and Hungry, just to name a few), however, all the other details of the event could have been found in an isolated room in the family home of any Yemeni woman.
Men are not allowed to these kinds of gatherings as they are restricted only to women. The presence of the opposite sex is a main motivation for young women in the States and I assume throughout much of the western world, to look their best and cut loose at social gatherings. There have been many times where I remember my female acquaintances backing out of an invite because the anticipated crowd was not up to their standards in terms of the male population or the like.
Women in Yemen put on their finest dresses, show skin (frequently lots of skin), wear make-up, and dance and sing for no one, but themselves and the other women in attendance. Smoking sheisha, chewing qat, and eating goodies are usually at the middle of these gatherings along with, of course, the privilege of allowing themselves to say what they want and do what they want without the same kind of restriction that normally intervenes in their lives.
The birthday party that I attended was a costume party. Kim (my eternal partner in crime when it comes to navigating Yemen) and myself were given last minute notice and seeing as neither of us had a costume on hand nor the money or the will to put one together in such a short time frame, showed up as our foreign selves. When we arrived, we were greatly outdone by the rest of the women there and I was impressed how, with the few resources available, they were able to put together such detailed costumes. Another testament to their appreciation for moments such as these.
There is no great climax to this blog entry so I won't pretend to end it with one. It's simply a testament to the humanity of women and the strength that it takes to find happiness in a society where life evolves around the basics of survival, where the woman under the robe blends into the background as an exotic picture on a postcard.

Delayed Pictures From Syria

So I know that its been almost two months since my trip to Syria so I apologize for only now posting pictures, but the internet here has been intolerable so it took me a while. Its just a small sample as not all the pictures are loading properly (thank you Yemen internet), but hopefully you can get a glimpse of my Syrian experience. Check them out under the obvious album title "Syria."

Random Acts In Yemen

Lately I've been expressing my frustrations with certain aspects of Yemeni society so I feel it appropriate to list some of the random kindhearted acts I have experienced here as well. As I've said before, the magnitude of Arab hospitality is overwhelming at times, but Yemenis take it to a whole new level. Here are just a few stories worth mentioning:

When I was looking for the Yemen Today Office for my first writers meeting way back in October, I got lost in the maze that is Sana'a. I asked a street vendor if he knew where the place was and he literally left his store and walked with me for a good half a mile through various streets to show me the exact location.

There are always lots of children playing in the streets where I live and usually I have fun with them for a few minutes as I pass by jumping in on a game of soccer or something of the like. Every time I walk down the streets you can hear the kids yelling "Danya!" in order to get my attention. Not sure why, but Yemenis seem to have a difficult time pronouncing "Dani." A few weeks ago I was walking with a friend in our neighborhood and a truck coming around the corner almost hit me. The neighborhood kids saw this unravel and almost as soon as the car put on its brakes there were about 20 Yemeni children hitting the sides of the vehicle and yelling at the driver for his mistake.

I frequently get fresh juice (orange and lemon, yum) from a vendor near my apartment and every time I go I like to get a water bottle filled so I have some for the morning. Each time, the people running the shop always give me an extra glass to drink while I'm there, free of charge.

When I was taking a taxi to work a while back, the driver started a conversation with me in Arabic. When we arrived at my destination he refused to let me pay because he was happy to have a foreigner speaking Arabic and learning about his culture.

I like to eat at a restaurant near by run by a man named Akhmed. Every time I go, he gives me at least two free dishes. I want to thank him for his generosity, but other than verbally thanking him there's really nothing that I can do. One day when he gave me a free dessert that was a new dish, I asked him questions about it (the name of it, etc.) to try to let him know that I enjoyed and appreciated it. Before he answered he had already brought two more trays of the same dish and was wrapping it up so I could take it to go.
These types of experiences tend to be the norm in Yemen and while often times they require the simplest of actions, they make a world of difference.

Elevating Yemen One Woman At A Time

In addition to the Friedman article, I also covered a women's empowerment program know as the Springboard Program for Yemen Today magazine. The women in the program were very inspiring and welcoming. Feel free to check it out below:

 Elevating Yemen One Woman At A Time

           As I make my way down the third floor of the British Council in Sana’a, a door swings open and I am greeted by an eager and smiling young woman. Huda Saleem, the Women’s Development Program Manager at the British Council, radiates a warmth and sincerity that is difficult to find in the world of today, let alone in someone as young as she. “When women come here,” she tells me as I ask about her passion for this program, “They have a vague idea of what the program will do for them. When they finish, you see their faces and they say, ‘thank you, you’ve changed me for the better and you saved me.’ That makes me feel empowered. As a Yemeni woman, I have been through the same thing and I know that we need this.”

Huda leads me into a lively room, buzzing with the chatter of female voices as the thirty participants engage in discussion over their books; a scene rarely viewed in Yemen, even by a women herself. In the months I’ve resided in this country, gatherings of Yemeni women have tended to be excluded to the home over lunch, tea and the occasional qat session.

According to their website, the British Council strives to “build engagement and trust for the UK through the exchange of knowledge and ideas between people worldwide.” The Springboard Program is one initiative supported by the British Council that envelopes this vision and pushes it a step further. Developed specifically for women and designed to provide them the skills necessary to advance in the work force and in their personal lives, the program empowers women in the Middle East to recognize and meet their potential while encouraging them to challenge traditional roles and perceptions.

Working women seeking to take advantage of a job opportunity, progress in their field, heighten their confidence or improve their overall well being are encouraged to participate. The details of the program vary depending on the country and situation, but in Yemen, it consists of four workshops held on Thursdays from 8-5pm. Subjects covered include confidence building, personal evaluation, setting goals, assertiveness, maintaining a balanced lifestyle and a variety of other positive topics.

The Springboard Program, which originated in the United Kingdom, has since been expanding its influence, making its first appearance in Saudi Arabia in 2004 then migrating to other Middle Eastern countries, including Yemen in September 2007. In addition to celebrating its 21^st anniversary in May of 2010, the Springboard program recently organized the first British Council Springboard Licensing Course for the Middle East in Beirut from July 12-20, 2009. This conference, composed of 30 women from organizations in Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Kuwait, UAE, Bahrain, Qatar and Oman, produced licensed trainers for the program, qualifying the attendees to instruct courses on self development customized to meet the needs of women in the Middle East. Completion of training ensures that the participants possess a strong knowledge of the Springboard Program and have fulfilled the challenging criteria established by the Springboard Consultancy.

Circulation of qualified trainers for the program also implies that the number of women and communities in the Middle East to benefit from this experience is on the rise. The Licensing Course is part of an expansion of regional projects in the Middle East to be conducted by the British Council with the greater aspiration of constructing a network of 20,000 Springboard alumni by 2012 and narrowing the gap of understanding between women in the Middle East and those in the UK.

In the conservative and traditional country of Yemen, it’s no secret that women are treated as second class citizens. Yemen was ranked last out of 130 countries in the 2008 World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap report and the estimated adult literacy rate for females by the UNDP in 2005 was only 34.7%. The testimony I received from the participants at the Springboard program overwhelmingly supported these findings.

Dr. Faiza Al-Maqtari, an optometrist, explains that “the problem is with basic human rights and luxuries; we don’t have them and there’s is no outlet with which to pursue them.” She proceeded to list examples of liberties Yemeni women are commonly denied, amongst them driving, going out at night, participating in activities without permission, and wearing clothing of their choice. “People don’t take me seriously in my profession and I’m not seen as an equal or as a qualified professional. Though I hold a high rank in society, I’m still subject to discrimination and disrespect.” Perhaps the most frustrating aspect of this society, as Dr. Faiza disclosed, “Is that those who are educated and who hold power that should be helping us, instead try to push us down. This problem is that of the world, but in some places and situations, you feel it more.”

The Springboard Program not only faces difficulties in empowering women, but in recruiting participation in a closed society. In addition to it interrupting work, school, and family responsibilities, a pharmacy student who I’ll refer to as SM, confesses that, “Many programs like this are seen as inspiring women to rebel against their family or society and teaches them to be selfish.”

SM does not agree with this conception. “There is a lot to learn from this program, you learn more about yourself and how to better communicate and express what you want.” One of the personal challenges SM faces is anger management, but she says, with the help of the program, “I’m regaining my confidence, learning to work on my anger issues, and seeing my own potential. It is helping me to set the steps I need to reach my goals and change the things about myself that I’d like to see improve.”

A veteran to such programs as the one Springboard offers, Bushra Nasr, a Project Analyst at the World Bank, feels that conquering the challenges of Yemeni society is a lifelong process. “Whenever I hear of these self development programs I just join because the atmosphere of this country tends to kill the enthusiasm you develop over time. I’ve managed to achieve everything I’ve wanted to. I started driving when I was a teen, studied abroad and even worked in Africa for a year. Now I want to be a trainer and send this spirit that I have to others and empower myself simultaneously.”

I was able to talk to these women at different intervals throughout the Springboard Program and observe their excitement grow and develop into determination. Participants expressed the change they felt within themselves from the first day. “This program is helping even within my home and this is only the second week. There have been positive changes for my family and for myself, culture, and friends,” praised Dr. Faiza.

The diversity of women in the program is worth noting. These participants come from various backgrounds, educations, governates, and age groups. Regardless of this, the women expressed a mutual respect for one another and were easily able to create a comfortable and open environment. Restricting classes to female participation is a main contributor to furthering development. This is an especially vital component in Arab cultures, where the male position is more likely to dominate conversation and inhibit honesty amongst female participants.

During the program’s last session, the women shared their reservations about the future. Hana’a Alherdi, Head of the Young Women’s Department at the Yemeni Youth Union confessed, “I knew before the program started that I must be strong, and even with reading the books and lectures it was difficult to erase all the weakness in myself and face the real society. Paper is one thing, but it is reality that is most challenging. Trying to maintain what I’m learning and honestly achieve my goals once the program is over, that is the challenge ahead.” This was a widespread fear amongst the women here, despite the fact that the program sets up a support group and networking options.

Hana’a Alherdi, like all the women I spoke to, found the structure of the program to be an effective one. In addition to the lectures and substance of the activities, Hana’a found that most importantly, “the material in the book was very simple to read and understand.” Also, “The ideas in the book can be turned into words and then into actions so we can understand what it means to be strong, empowered, and developed, then act on it accordingly.”

While all of the women agree that the Springboard Program is beneficial and is helping them meet their goals, they also had recommendations for improvement. Mainly, the women wanted the program to run for longer than the allotted four weeks. Furthermore, most agree that the cost, while subsidized, is still too expensive and that the program needs to be expanded to reach as many women as possible.

            Currently, the program has trained 156 women in Yemen from a range of governates including Sana’a, Adan, Taiz, and Hodeidah. The two categories offered (one for teenagers and one for women 20 and above) ensure that no woman gets excluded on the basis of age. The challenges women must confront to lead lives equal to that of their male counterparts is frustrating, overwhelming and continuous, but Hana’a Alherdi has faith that it can be accomplished. “We have to start with building ourselves first then we can build the society; we must start from the bottom.” Hana’a believes “that women well educated will break the walls they face in their society one step at a time.” She says, “This is my principle and how I faced the issues with my family.”

            I’ve reiterated the testimony of a few of the women I spoke with, but all of them had something to say and where eager to get the attention of someone willing to listen. Experiencing the strength and unity of these women in the midst of such a tremendous struggle is both moving and inspiring, and with the help of initiatives like the Springboard Program, it’s only a matter of time before the second half of the population begins to actively reshape Yemeni society.

Yemen Is In the Making, Not In The Failing

Here's the blurb I wrote covering Thomas Friedman's visit to Media Women Forum for Yemen Today Magazine:

Yemen Is In the Making, Not In The Failing:

Thomas Friedman Visits Media Women Forum

“Yemen is in the making, not in the failing.” This was the message given to Thomas Friedman by ten leaders in Yemeni media at the conclusion of the discussion that took place Wednesday, February 3, 2010 at Media Women Forum in Sana’a. The meeting marked Friedman first visit to Yemen and addressed issues regarding Yemen’s political situation, development, United States contribution and dismantlement of Al-Qaeda.

Thomas Friedman, American New York Times columnist and three times Pulitzer Prize winner, began the conversation openly, recognizing the sudden interest in Yemen by the United States as the result of Al-Qaeda’s activity. While Friedman acknowledged the complexity of the various situations in Yemen, he feels “what Yemen needs are the simple things.” Good governance and a sturdy educational system were amongst those mentioned requiring an attentive and active government.

The question from Yemeni journalists was how to initiate this process of reform. To this, Friedman responded, “You always have to look for where the leverage is with your government...find the leverage on the president that he will embrace, don’t just use one force against the other.” He continued by adding, “At the end of the day, change has to come from within.”

Freidman cited the Camp David Peace Agreements between Egypt and Israel as an example of Middle Eastern countries taking initiative in the international political sphere and cemented his point with the analogy, “In the history of the world, no one’s ever washed a rented car. People from this part of the world have long rented their cars from their country’s kings and dictators, are you ready to own the car?”

Comparing Yemen’s situation to Taiwan (another country of 23 million), Friedman continued by calling to attention the untapped human capitol in Yemen, using Taiwan’s success as an example of what Yemen could achieve.

For the United States, Friedman sees Yemen as a chance to reevaluate past approaches to terrorism. His advice for the U.S. government is, “if for every one drone you send, you build 100 schools, you’ll be on the right track.” He admits that Yemenis know their country in ways that would take foreigners a lifetime to determine. Consequently, the U.S. will receive protection only when tribe says, “there will be no Al-Qaeda.” Friedman identifies this as the best form of security.

In response, freelance journalist Mohammed Al-Asaadi brought to attention that the majority of Yemeni citizens reside in rural areas. He explained that the government can’t reach the population and the population can’t make demands, resulting in gaps within the country that force it to operate on an ad hoc basis.

Before departing, Rahma Hugaira (President of Media Women Forum) gave thanks and appreciation to Friedman for his visit, which emphasized his support for free media and women’s rights in Yemen.

Media Women Forum is a non-governmental organization conducting initiatives for Yemeni media professionals (with an emphasis on women) to introduce objective journalism and enhance the media’s role in promoting issues surrounding human rights, democracy and development.

Some Things Never Change

I was walking home from work on Wednesday and saw a young boy looking into a garbage can. By garbage can, I mean a large cardboard box that the neighbors were throwing their trash into. A suspicious scene, so I went to investigate and low and behold there were three newborn kittens flopping around amongst the trash. Apparently, even in Yemen where people don't really have cats as pets, kittens still get thrown in the garbage. The last thing I need right now is to be waking up every two hours and dragging a litter of kittens around Yemen, but I also can't just leave three kittens to die, dirty and hungry in garbage dump. I grabbed them up, wrapped them in my shall, and took them home.
They are now clean and fat, though to be honest I doubt they'll live long. Its difficult enough to raise bottle babies in general, but in Yemen there is no such thing as kitten formula and while baby formula will suffice in the short term, it lacks a lot of the nutrients specific to feline needs. In addition, there are no kitten size bottles, so feeding through a syringe is tricky. They hate the plastic and its easier for them to asphyxiate, but they're adapting.
I've been fostering kittens for Humane Societies and various veterinary hospitals (as I'm a veterinary technician) since I was a kid and was enjoying it up to when I left for the Middle East. Most of my buddies back home laughed when I told them this and responded by saying they were glad to know that some things never change.
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that they make it through the next couple weeks.

Languages

I have always admired those fluent in many languages and traveling abroad has inspired me to become fluent not only in Arabic, but in Russian, Chinese, and Italian as well. I'd also like to study Hebrew so I can catch some slack from my Israeli buddies whenever they send out group messages or updates and I have to ask for a special translation because, as they know, I can't read Hebrew.
I've taken French for a good seven years and while I'm a little rusty, I decided to seize the opportunity to brush up on the language when I was offered a tutoring position. I'm enjoying the experience though teaching French to Yemeni's in combination of broken Arabic, English and French has proven to be somewhat challenging. In addition, another issue seems to have resurfaced in reminding my brain of its French abilities. When I first started learning Arabic, whenever my professor would ask me a question, my first response (mentally) was always in French. Thankfully I never answered in French, but I had to then rethink the question a second time in Arabic, often making for a somewhat awkward response time. It took me a year or so to move past this and while the same pattern hasn't completely adopted its old form, I have started to unintentionally bring French words into my thinking when speaking in Arabic.
My brain continues to slack on its organizational abilities, but in the mean time I hope I can train it to separate one language from another.

Postcard From Yemen

Here's a piece Thomas Freidman wrote about his visit to Yemen. I find it amusing how surprised he was to find young foreigners here. When he met me at Media Women Forum the first thing he said was, "how did you get here?" After MWF Freidman went to visit the Yemen Observer (the company I write magazine articles for, aka Yemen Today). My foriegn friends that work there said he had a similar reaction to them, which he expresses in his piece. Check it out at:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/07/opinion/07friedman.html

Press Release

Friedman Supports Media Women Forum with a Press Conference

Sana’a, Yemen, February 3, 2010 /Media Women Forum - Today, Media Women Forum held a round table discussion in honor of a visit from Thomas Friedman, American NY Times columnist and Pulitzer Prize winner. Friedman exchanged opinions with ten leaders of the Yemeni media addressing the current situation as well as US contribution and tactics in the fight against Al-Qaeda.

Friedman spoke honestly with conference members, acknowledging that America’s interest in Yemen is as the result of activity with Al-Qaeda and began a discussion concentrating on the main issues in Yemen (education, development, security, etc.) and the methods that need to be pursued in order to remedy such obstacles.

Also raised was the question of the United States administration and how it will interact with Yemen as a result of current developments. Friedman cemented the point that Yemen must take responsibility for its country and should focus on development from within. Until this is achieved, support from the United States will be ineffective. Before concluding, Yemeni journalists expressed enthusiasm for Friedman’s visit and left a message with Friedman for the US, that Yemen is in the making, not in the failing, and that we will find a way to unite and better our country for the benefit of its people.

After thanking Media Women Forum and its guests profusely, Friedman told the Forum, “I have two daughters and one day, I hope that I can bring them here.” This was perhaps the ultimate form of flattery and support for both Media Women Forum and the cause for which they are fighting. Should Thomas Friedman visit Yemen again, it would be their pleasure to welcome him back to their organization.

This conference took place in the capitol of Sana’a at 11:30am at the Media Women Forum’s personal conference room, Amat Al-Aleem Alsusua, and included various members of the Women Media Forum and respected local journalists and media institutions. Such members included:
Rahma Hugaira (President of MWF)
Fares Sanabani (Editor-in-Chief of Yemen Today)
Fares Alsaqqaf (Chairperson of General Board of Books)
Danielle Giacchetti (Public Relations and Program Officer at MWF)
Murad Hashem (Director of Aljazira Office in Yemen)
Hamood Monasar (Director of Al Arabia Office in Yemen)
Khaled Alhamadi (Correspondent the Agency of Arabic Quds)
Naif Hassan (Editor-in-Chief of Alshare'a Newspaper)
Mohamed Alassadi (Journalist)
Bushra Alamira (Journalist)
Fiadh ALnoa'man (Journalist)

Media Women Forum is a non-governmental organization conducting initiatives for Yemeni media professionals to introduce objective journalism and enhance the media’s role in promoting issues surrounding human rights, democracy and development.

Thomas Friedman Visit's Media Women Forum

Since beginning my position at Media Women Forum I've met ambassadors, ministers, representatives from embassies, the UN, UNICEF and other organizations of the like, but today we had a particularly politically significant guest attend a meeting at the Forum, none other than Thomas Friedman. Friedman, amongst other things, is an American New York Times columnist and a three times Pulitzer Prize winner. I own some of his work, including the book, "From Beirut to Jerusalem." I don't always agree with Freidman's opinions nor do I always support his intentions. However, he has extensive experience in and with the Middle East (though this was his first visit to Yemen) and is very influential in the international political scene, so I was excited to learn I would be attending a round table discussion which he would be leading.

It was one of those times where I felt like I was actually progressing in this field and was pleased that I was able to present questions of my own to Friedman during the meeting while be taken seriously in the process. I will most likely be writing about the event for Yemen Today magazine and was asked to write a press release for the event immediately following it's conclusion. That press release is posted on the following entry soon to be followed (inshallah) by my article.

Below is some information on Thomas Friedman for those who aren't familiar with him or his work:

Thomas Lauren Friedman is an American New York Times columnist and a three time Pulitzer Prize winning author (twice for International Reporting in 1983 and 1988 and once for Commentary in 2002). He has written extensively on foreign affairs including global trade, the Middle East and environmental issues has been a member of the Pulitzer Prize Board from 2004 until the present.
His works include:

From Beirut to Jerusalem (1989)
The Lexus and the Olive Tree: Understanding Globalization (1999)
Longitudes and Attitudes: Exploring the World After September 11 (2002; reprinted 2003 as Longitudes and Attitudes: The World in the Age of Terrorism)
The World Is Flat: A Brief History of The Twenty-first Century (2005)
Hot, Flat, and Crowded: Why We Need a Green Revolution And How It Can Renew America (2008)

Friedman was born in St. Louis Park, Minnesota, a suburb of Minneapolis in July of 1953. In 1975, Friedman received a bachelor of arts in Mediterranean studies from Brandeis University and then attended St Antony's College at the University of Oxford on a Marshall scholarship, earning an Masters of Philosophy in Middle Eastern studies.

Friedman joined the London bureau of United Press International after completing his masters degree. He was dispatched a year later to Beirut, where he stayed until 1981. He was then hired by The New York Times as a reporter, and was re-dispatched to Beirut at the start of the 1982 Israeli invasion of Lebanon. Friedman's coverage of the war, particularly the Sabra and Shatila massacre, won him the Pulitzer Prize for International Reporting. With David K. Shipler, he also won the 1982 George Polk Award for Foreign Reporting.

He was assigned to Jerusalem from 1984 to 1988, and received a second Pulitzer Prize for his coverage of the First Palestinian Intifada. Afterwords he wrote a book, From Beirut to Jerusalem, describing his experiences in the Middle East.

Friedman covered Secretary of State James Baker during the administration of United States President George H. W. Bush. Following the election of Bill Clinton in 1992, he became the White House correspondent for the Times. In 1994, he began to write more about foreign policy and economics, and moved to the op-ed page of The New York Times the following year as a foreign affairs columnist. In 2002, Friedman won the Pulitzer Prize for Commentary "for his clarity of vision, based on extensive reporting, in commenting on the worldwide impact of the terrorist threat."

In February 2002, Friedman met Saudi Crown Prince Abdullah and personally encouraged him to make his comprehensive attempt to end the Arab-Israeli conflict by normalizing Arab relations with Israel in exchange for the return of refugees alongside an end to the Israel territorial occupations. Abdullah proposed the Arab Peace Initiative at the Beirut Summit that March, which Friedman has strongly supported since. Friedman is the recipient of the 2004 Overseas Press Club Award for lifetime achievement, and has been named to the Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II.
Information taken from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Friedman

Being a Women in Yemen

Being a woman in the Middle East is no cup of tea. I admire women here for many reasons. If you've ever seen a Middle Eastern toilet, you too would have instant admiration. Women in Yemen are strong, enduring and sacrifice most of themselves for the sake of their families. They are also seen as second class citizens and treated as such.
Shortly after arriving in Yemen, where the grand majority of native women are veiled, I was disturbed to realize that when women would pass me in the streets, I would only make eye contact and smile at the few without the veil. It was completely unintentional and even though many veiled women still reveal their eyes, I simply didn't see them. Since then, I've made an effort to acknowledge all women, veil or no veil, and to remember that there is a person under all the cover. Still, I have to wonder how it must feel and what the long term effects may be for women, at least while in public, to have a total lack of identity.
To say women aren't seen here isn't completely true. Those fully covered and veiled still get cat calls from men, however, there's no comparison between the harassment native women contend with to that of western women when it comes to male attention in the streets.
The attention from men that I've received in any Arab country has always been frequent and made me uncomfortable and agitated, but the magnitude of that attention has been most significant in Yemen. However, only recently has this phenomenon begun to affect my mood and the way I perceive men here.
Let me expand to give you a better understanding of what I experience every day when I walk outside.
First, you have the stares which is aidi (normal), these come from everyone, men, women and children and aren't so much a big deal. Especially with women and children, I know the looks come from a more genuine curiosity and interest, at least most of the time, and while the stares from men may also originate from the same place, 90% of the time accompanied with it is the hope of some kind of sexual exploit. It would be wrong to say that all the men here are like that as I have met some wonderful men who have gone out of their way for me without expecting anything in return and I have acquired some very trustworthy male Yemeni friends. However, when 90% of the male community that I encounter when walking outside acts in the opposite manner, its difficult not to become resentful.
With the looks come vocalizations, "I love you," "hello hello hello," "how are you?" Understand that no one here speaks English so men will say whatever they know multiple times while trying to approach you in hopes of getting your attention so that you will interact with them. I've had cars intentionally cut me off, motorbikes circle me, traffic will literally stop when I pass by and if I'm riding in a taxi, men will stop their cars next to me and try to make conversation or sing through the window. I'm often propositioned in the streets, public transportation and anywhere else I might go. For those who don't know, western women are not only seen as exotic, but easy. The worst is when I'm in a busy, crowded, market and men try to touch what they can by making it seem like an accident. Unfortunately, this works because as soon as you realize what happened the person has vanished.
These experiences are disrespectful and insulting and these days, both myself and my friend Kim tend to not go for long excursions unless we're together. Male gestures tend to be fewer when in bigger groups and its nice to have someone else there to contend with these things for emotional support, if you will. Its interesting, but most of the girls here that I consider friends have been in Yemen for a significant amount of time and have lived in other Middle Eastern countries, but the "western woman factor" as I'll call it, seems only now to really be getting to us, and all simultaneously despite the various durations of time we've spent abroad.
My friend Sam, who works in marketing here, gets the unique experience of having the male businessmen she contacts for her job call her personal phone at all hours of the night. On a less unique note, we've all gotten calls from wrong numbers by men who realized they called a foreign women and proceeded to call continuously thereafter.
Some people might tell me that if its such a big deal I should start wearing a nicab. To that I would respond that men can tell when a foreign woman wears a nicab. I myself can't figure it out completely, other than perhaps the subtle differences in body language, tread and posture between Yemeni and Western women aren't really all that subtle. Also, I am not Yemeni nor am I Muslim. I can respect the culture here by wearing conservative and loose clothing while not feeling forced to make a decision that isn't my own. In a way, I feel doing otherwise actually projects disrespect, although there are times (due to the safety factor) wear I will dress in this manner.
I've tried to understand the cultural mindset around this behavior, I've analyzed and sympathized, and now I just find myself fighting resentment and constant skepticism of the men here. I try to focus on the positive male relationships I've made and realize that this phenomenon only seems to happen in the streets, not in all settings, but some days, I think its just better to stay indoors.

Sustainable Development in Yemen is Possible

Analysis of the Report:
Sustainable Development is Possible in Yemen

Yemen is country rich in beauty and culture, but one whose problems easily overwhelm its onlooker. The article, “Sustainable Development in Yemen is Possible,” written by Danya Greenfield and published January 14, 2010 by the Center for American Progress (a progressive DC based think tank), takes these surmounting issues and funnels them into perspective.

Greenfield assesses Yemen’s current situation in a brief and organized fashion that gets straight to the point and focuses on how the United States should interact with Yemen to ensure greater stability and progress. It is suggested that three sections be emphasized in terms of assistance and support, including local governance, anti-corruption efforts, and economic reform.

Media Women Forum (the nongovernmental organization I am working for) is commended by Greenfield as one organization that has taken initiative in the area of anti-corruption. If you would like to read the actual article for more details, please refer to the following link:

http://www.americanprogress.org/issues/2010/01/sustainable_development_yemen.html

Speaking in Code

From the beginning of my Middle East journey I have had to play to the audience I was entertaining, so to speak. A white lie here, a blatant lie there, using body language and voice (or lack there of) to convince someone of a certain belief, opinion, or attitude that I may or may not carry in the name of safety and exploration.
In Palestine, I spoke Arabic and had to put out a focused effort not to speak Hebrew. In Israel, I spoke Hebrew and had to put out a focused effort not to speak Arabic. When asked about my opinions towards my politics, it took imagination, creativity and restraint (in both Israel, Palestine and in any other Arab countries for that matter) to provide people with answers that closely resembled the one's I hold without straying too far from the ones I believed the person I was conversing with held. I clearly do not support the current occupation in Israel, but I have sensitivities for both the Israelis and the Palestinians and if I don't fully support one "side" then I am in danger of being seen as against it. At times I lied completely about what I was doing abroad.
In countries such as Syria and Yemen, when asked where I learned Arabic, I say Jordan or Egypt as I may be seen as a terrorist or simply be kicked out if I say Palestine. I have two passports, one that shows no sign of Israel/Palestine so I may enter countries such as these. In Syria, when talking about Israel to those I trusted, I referred to it as "Disneyland," I referred to the Syrian government as "the Company," and I referred to the Syrian president as "the CEO," all of which are common lingo for anyone talking about these subjects in Syria.
When I take a taxi or bus in the Middle East, I tell the drivers I have a boyfriend or I'm married (as they usually ask) and often pretend not to understand what it is they're asking or telling me thereafter. In airports or other security settings, I embody the role of the eager naive tourist which usually gets me to where I need to go. When it doesn't, I become assertive, persistent and sometimes aggressive which succeeds when the latter fails to.
Since the recent expansion of political unrest and US involvement in Yemen, I tell people I am from France. For the record, when someone asks you if you're from Russia in the Middle East, say no, as this is usually synonymous with "are you a prostitute?" When traveling through checkpoints, I wear a veil to give the illusion that I am Yemeni so as not to be stopped by security.
There are other such tactics I will leave out for the sake of space and keeping your attention, but its important to be smart when you're traveling, especially in this region and these mechanisms have helped me to do so. Simultaneously, they are draining me. I have been working and pushing myself to the edge ever since I arrived and for the first time since landing, I'm starting to feel it. In many ways, being here is like adopting another identity, one which I can never be comfortable with and one that takes a lot of exertion to uphold not only for my own safety and ease, but out of respect for the culture as well.
I only have a few more months here and I am trying my best to get the most out it and enjoy every experience as I am presented with opportunities to see this culture in ways that others will never be privy to. I only hope that I can keep going at the same speed until then.

Security Situation in Yemen

I've been getting a lot of messages from people back home in regards to the current security situation in Yemen and seeing as things are starting to escalate, I feel its time to address the issue.
Whereas a few weeks ago many people didn't have any idea of Yemen's existence, now suddenly the country is on everyone's radar. After the bombings by the Yemeni government with the support of the US (which supposedly killed 30 Al-Qaeda members, though it was actually four or five, the rest were civilians) and other occurrences within the last month, the foreign community has expressed fear of retaliation against the US and the foreign population here. The security situation is further complicated by the insurgency in the north and the secessionist movement rising in the south. Yesterday, both the American and British Embassies closed down and today, embassies from France and Japan followed and those of Spain and Germany have tightened their security.
First off, I'm fine and so is the rest of the foreign community here. Many people are getting worried, but the media hype and concerns expressed from family and friends back home is more of a contributor to the developing fear than an actual change in conditions here. That's how "terrorism" works. The threat has always been here. We all knew about the presence of Al-Qaeda and other terrorist groups long before coming to Yemen, but Sana'a has always felt very safe and the people in our town have always looked after us. Honestly, I'm more afraid of what the US will do and as a result, what they will incite, than I am about any terrorist group on their own.
As far as precautions go, we've been trying to be as smart as possible. We don't go out in big groups and have been staying in at night. We didn't even go out for New Years to avoid unwanted attention and avoid hot spots for foreigners. We've been careful about telling people where we live and what we're doing here. The female students have even been wearing the nicab (black robe providing full coverage from head to toe) to conceal the foreign look. As far as I'm concerned, I'll be moving out of the YCMES college in the next week and a half to an apartment in Old Sana'a with some friends of mine. That will decrease the threat slightly and if things do escalate quickly, I know a few Yemeni families I can stay with.
For the time being, I'm fine and will hold out as long as I can. To read some current news on the situation, refer to the sites below:

http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2010/01/2010149572402958.html

http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2009/12/2009122935812371810.html

Media Women's Forum (MWF)

Recently I was offered an opportunity to work with a non governmental organization in Sana'a that focuses on enhancing women's rights and freedoms through the use of the media. The NGO, Media Women's Forum, is very well established and involved in the Yemeni community. Human rights is my area of interest and due to the hands on nature of the position and the passion of the woman who runs the organization (Rahma Al-Hugeira), I decided to take advantage of the opportunity.
This has been my first week here and I'm excited to get new projects moving. The majority of the employees at MWF are women which makes for a relaxing atmosphere. I look like an alien to people here and men tend to stare for periods of time that make me less than comfortable. In addition, all the women have been so welcoming, going out of their way to get to know me, referring to me as their sister, etc.
Media Women's Forum, established in 2004, strives to professionally develop the media industry in Yemen so it can advocate human rights, democracy and development issues. Established by a group of professional female journalists and media activists, the main objective of the MWF is to develop the skills of women and men in the media by assisting students and civil rights activists to create public awareness on issues on human rights, gender empowerment, democratization, and good governance. To achieve this, MWF builds strong coalitions with active NGOs and media groups. More information can be found on their website at:
http://www.mwfye.org
Don't forget to click on the English version in the upper left hand corner - this version I'm currently helping reconstruct as it needs some serious tinkering.
My role at MWF as Public Relations and Programs Officer is triple fold. First and foremost, I have access to a list of donors, interested parties, current projects, and projects that need developing. My primary job will be creating proposals for new project ideas, refining old ones and making connections with local and international NGOs and organizations in order to gain support and mutual cooperation to get current ideas off the ground and add new elements to old ones.
Second, I'll be going through all the brochures, handouts and web information that is available in English and reconstructing them to be more grammatically correct, visually pleasing, informative and clear. Lastly, any projects, proposals or papers previously put together I will need to review and fine tune for both content and structure.
This NGO appears to be a strong force in the community so I'm happy to be part of an organization that is successful in inspiring change, especially for women, an area of human rights that has grabbed my attention more than others while living and working in Yemen.

Night Noises at Deir Mar Musa

As I mentioned in my previous post, I was able to produce some fluid writing while at Mar Musa. I don't really share my poetry with people, but this was created while I was in process of getting back on track. Its not quite poetry, but something in between that related to my perception of the place, so I thought I'd post it.

"I grace the edge of the monastery, breaching the boundary between sky and earth, illuminated by moon and starts, grounded by shadows of sand and stone. I am captivated by this place.
Suddenly the solitude is shared, accompanied by foreign whispers in the dark, distinguishable only by the familiar rhythm and occasional note that jarred my recognition of the long ago Italian that once danced at my dinner table. Utterances that seemed as near and as isolated as those that currently wielded the attention of my senses. I am captivated by this place.
By its feel, its smell, its colors, its voice. By the simplicity that attracts the complex. It speaks to me of a time that once was, in it's history and in mine. A time perceived one way, but lived another and of a present that seeks to find common ground while conserving the breath of the being. I am alive here, and I am captivated."

Deir Mar Musa

Syria is full of fascinating sites and Palmyra was one place that left a special mark on my radar. However, Deir Mar Musa is worth an entire entry if not more. Deir Mar Musa is an old monastery in the mountains of Syria and requires climbing over 1,000 stairs to get there, but the visit is worth the hike.
Paulo, a priest from Rome, has been overseeing Deir Mar Musa since 1982 with the intent to revitalize the monastery way of life and teach about a monastic lifestyle. He and a few others who share his vision strive to synthesize Islam and Christianity, but most who go there are neither Muslim, Christian or religious in general. There is no preaching here, just people gathering from all over the world, from various stages and walks of life, discussing their experiences (spiritual or not) and gathering around the possibility of something greater than themselves, whatever it may be. Paulo and the others here recognize that people are searching for something and rather than pay attention to the details of one religion or another, Paulo emphases that, "god is not with you or with me, God is with us."
When staying at the old monastery (the main one I stayed in which has been in use from the 1600s and two other buildings constructed more recently to support the growing number of people who come here during certain seasons), you are provided with a communal bedroom, as well as clean sheets, blankets and towels. Meals are served three times daily, tea is available at any time, showers, bathrooms and a library are also provided, there is plenty of mountain for hiking and there's an old church (my favorite part of the experience) near the entryway. Meditation as well as prayer services are held in the morning and at night, though no one is required to attend anything and everyone helps do what they can (cook, clean, etc.). If you want to leave a donation at the end of your stay you're more than welcome to, though it is not required, otherwise you pay nothing. People here stay for days, months, and even years as they take in what the place has to offer.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm not religious. However, I attended the prayer and meditation services and found them to be nothing short of beautiful. The bibles on the shelves of the church were in Arabic, German, French and a variety of other languages. Almost everyone attended the services and there was something so powerful about the diversity of age, language and spiritual beliefs in the room all coming together regardless of the differences.
There is a serenity to the desert that is unique from other venues in the natural world; it emanates a spirituality of a different taste. Despite the compliment of the desert mountains and plains, there is a power to this place that is indescribable and originates not from its surroundings, but from within. I simply felt alive here. It was as if all the experiences, thoughts, emotions and unknowns from the last year and beyond were able to break free from the confines of my subconscious and face me head on. I could see here and amongst all of those thoughts I'd been putting off for later came giant strides of clarity.
I write poetry. For the last year and a half or so I've had an incomprehensible writer's block, but for the first time in a long time I could write like I use to. I was only able to spend a day and a night here and it pained me to leave, but I am determined to return and stay for at least a week, if not longer. Check out the pictures to get a better feel for the place (soon to come I promise) or as I highly recommend, go there yourself.

Hammam Ammounah

I've been to the hammams in Yemen and while they are an interesting cultural experience, the hammams here are not the same as the traditional Middle Eastern hamman. In Yemen, you enter an old bath house that descends under the ground with a towel or drape wrapped around you and proceed into a stone room with fountains spouting both cold and hot water. Usually you go with other women and you wash and scrub each other in that setting. Nudity is not tolerated so you have to try to wash yourself while revealing as little as possible.
The hammam in Syria (Hammam Ammounah) more accurately resembled what I'd heard a traditional hammam should be. When I entered, there was a beautiful sitting area with a fountain and tall elaborately decorated ceilings. The first stage was entering a steam room with a towel wrapped around me for five to ten minutes. Then, I was given time to rinse off and scrub down on the stone floor next to a small fountain which provided me with water, after which a very large Syrian woman proceeded to scrub down every inch of my body. I had no idea I was so dirty. She literally was scraping off skin, but if felt amazing, not painful at all. Afterwards, another large Syrian woman massaged my entire body with oil, and I do mean pretty much everything. This was followed by an intense foot scrub after which I went back to the wash area to soap down and wash my hair.
The experience ended with a cup of tea in the sitting room while drying off. The whole time the Syrian women working there were singing amongst each other while scrubbing me down. I've never felt so clean and relaxed; such a unique experience I wish I could relive on a frequent basis. Perhaps a future business endeavor in the US? 

The Islamic Hammam

A bit of information on the Islamic Hammam (or bath house) for those are interested since they are such a prevalent part of the Middle Eastern Society. Compliments of Wikipedia. I'll talk about my own experiences with the hammam following this post:
The Turkish bath has played an important role in Middle Eastern society, acting as a place of social gathering, ritual cleansing, and architectural beauty. The Islamic hammam is akin to the saunas and sweat rooms of the West. Inspired by Greek-Roman baths that Arabs encountered during their conquests of Alexandria (642 AD), the Turkish bath has an improved style and functionality.
It wasn’t until the Prophet Mohammed himself recommended sweat baths as a way to enhance fertility and thereby multiply the followers of Islam did the hammam gain in popularity and spread throughout the Arab world (600AD). Prior to this, Arabs washed predominately in cold water and never bathed in tubs, which was seen as bathing in one’s own filth. Following the conquests of Syria and Alexandria, holy men discovered the pleasure of hot air bathing, and emphasized the religious significance to their followers. Hammams were built as annexes to mosques, tied to Islamic laws of hygiene and purification. Physical and intellectual development within the hammam, with the exception of the massage, was de-emphasized.
The hammam became a quiet retreat, an environment of half-light, quiescence, and seclusion. The vaulted ceilings of old shrank as buildings became smaller and more modest, and rather than building expansive central baths like the Romans, Arabs built several small baths throughout their cities. In Roman and Turkish baths, a typical hammam consisted of three interconnected rooms, the hot room, which had niches with fountains in the corners for soaking up steam and receiving scrub massages, the warm room, for washing up with soap and water, and cool room, for relaxing, dressing, or having a refreshing drink.
Under the Arabs, the hammam further transformed, as the warm intermediate room became a passageway leading from the dressing room to the hot room, and the relaxing room became a small steam room adjoining the hot room. While the Roman bather might have finished the hammam experience with a stay in the library or study, the hammam bather ends where he or she started, in a rest hall where servants brought drinks and cooled him or her with fans.
Hammams are heated by hypocaust (heating from below) heating systems, and in some regions hammams may use the heat from hot springs to warm the hammam. The oldest hammams were those of the semi-bedouin Camayyad caliphs. These hammams were built outside cities, in the desert wilderness, the oldest of which is named Kusair Aman and is found near the Dead Sea. The hammam then spread to most places touched by Islam, including Iran, Asia Minor, across North Africa, and even in Moorish Spain and near the northern Danube River. Conquered temples, churches, and baths were often converted into hammams.
The hammam served as the social centers of the Ottoman Empire, built in almost every Ottoman city, integrated in daily life, and filled on every occasion with traditional entertainment and ceremonies, such as before weddings, high-holidays, births, beauty trips, etc. Baths were one of the few places in Islamic civilization open to everyone from early morning until late at night. Hammams would sometimes feature a barber who, in addition to shaving, cutting hair, letting blood, and massaging bodies, would also scrub the soles of bathers’ feet to remove calluses from which bad vapors and undesirables would flow down and out of the body. Hammams were also places of religious cleansing, and travelers, ex-prisoners, and people recovering from troubles or disease would come to clean and convene with Allah.
When Mohammed first advocated the use of the hammam for religious and recreational reasons, women were forbidden. But after the hygienic benefits were realized, his words were reinterpreted and women were permitted to bathe after an illness or giving birth. Eventually, Arab men reluctantly allowed women full use of the hammam, one of the first opportunities they received to socialize with anyone outside the home. The hammam became such an important part of women’s lives, that the denial by the husband of his wife’s right to visit the hammam was considered grounds for divorce.

Aaland, Mikkel, The Islamic Hammam is Born, 1997 http://www.cyberbohemia.com/Pages/Islahammam.htm
Wikipedia, The Turkish Bath http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammam