Monday, March 15, 2010

Navigating Yemen

In the event that you or someone you know might visit Sana’a in the near future, here’s a little info on the public transportation system in Yemen. Basically, there are two options for maneuvering within the city: taxis and dubabs.
A taxi is self explanatory in its title. In Yemen, most taxis are white with yellow painted onto all four corners of the car. This color taxis does not have a meter or “ad-dud” so you have to barter for a price. Other taxis with a meter come in red and yellow or completely yellow. The bonus of a taxi with a meter is usually they know the location of the place you want to go.
Let me explain that most taxi drivers only work as such part time, most work in other fields, but are either unable to find employment in their profession or only do so part time because their profession alone is not a substantial income so those lucky enough to have the means will drive a taxi.
Red or completely yellow taxis work for companies (whereas as yellow and white taxis are self employed), so they tend to have a better conception of where things are. I never take these however, since most of the time the meter has been tampered with so you end up getting overcharged.
If you’re a foreigner and you barter with a yellow and white taxi, the driver will almost always try to overcharge by at least double. This is why I barter before getting into the taxi, never after. A ten minute cab ride usually costs around 200 rials (though sometimes you have to make more that one attempt) or about $1.00. A 15-20 minute cab ride will cost around 250-350 rials ($1.25-$1.50).
Some cars will say they’re taxis, but have no color distinction. These are not taxis, do not get in them. Some cars will also try to pull over with a driver and another person (man) in the front seat. Whether they have a color distinction or not, do not get in them.
A dubab is a minivan (a very mini van, just an fyi) that is as close to a bus as you’ll get in Sana’a. They will pull over at any point and are labeled by color, number, and area (for instance Bab al-Yemen, etc.). Their exact route, however, will only become known when you become a frequent rider as the streets of Sana’a are a maze and so are the routes they take. The typical dubab price is 20 rials (10 cents) and it will take you a far distance. You do feel somewhat like a sardine as these minivans will cram as many people inside as possible.
As a foreign woman I get a little more leeway, but normally Yemeni women sit together without men next to them and in the back of the minivan. I found this statement funny after writing it because it makes it seem like there’s a proper front and back to these dubabs, but there isn’t.
I try to take dubabs as frequently as possible, but sometimes my destination is either unknown to myself (especially for when I do interviews for Yemen Today Magazine) or not on a main road in which case I’m forced to take a taxi. Either way, in Sana’a, your destination is never that far away, though it may be well hidden, but ask enough people and eventually you’ll get where you need to be.

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