Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Looking In

In Hebrew, Zion refers to the citadel of Jerusalem and also to the Kingdom of Heaven. Zionism refers to the Jewish movement that arose among European Jews in the late nineteenth century to create a Jewish homeland in response to increasing Antisemitism. This movement was officially initiated in 1897 by Theodore Herzl (1860-1904) at the World Zionist Conference. Since then there have been organized attempts to persuade Jews to immigrate to Israel, otherwise known as Palestine. Zionism achieved its principal aim in 1948 with the establishment of a state of Israel which acknowledged, via the “Law of Return,” the right of all Jews to live within its borders. Modern Zionism is concerned with the support and development of the state of Israel.
One example of the Zionist movement being enacted in government policy is called “Birth Right.” This program encourages young Jews throughout the world (though the majority come from the US) ages 18-26, to visit the country of Israel in hopes that they will connect with the culture, history and people so that they may eventually migrate to Israel themselves. The trip also increases solidarity. The government of Israel pays for the ten day trip including airfare, most meals, and expenses associated with touring, hotels, etc.
Jews in Israel are considered to be Sephardim or Ashkenazim. The Sephardim immigrated from the Iberian Peninsula (modern day Spain and Portugal), Middle East, and North Africa while the Ashkenazim derive from Europe. These titles indicate ethnic and cultural differences. Racial issues between the two groups have also been a problem in the past and while tensions still exist, overall they have been declining.
Here's a quick glance at some of the different kinds of Jewish beliefs you find in Israel, however, many fit into multiple groups or other divisions not listed here (and there are many; I haven't even talked about the Russians or the Arabs for instance).
Secular Jews may or may not believe in God, but they do not practice the basic rules of Judaism. For example, they don't keep Shabbat, they don't keep kosher, they eat pork, etc.
National Jews are considered to be religious, but not ultra orthodox. They can be identified by the braided kipa and strings that they wear.
The ultra Orthodox Jews or Haredim (“those who tremble before God”) don't believe in a government based in democratic rule, but in the rule of God. The men tend to sport beards with curling ear locks and dress in black suits and hats from 18th century Eastern Europe (you can identify them in my pictures by these traits). Women's dress varies, but they are always covered up and often wear long skirts and conceal their hair.
While Reform Jews keep their religious beliefs they're more moderate and believe in equality between the sexes.
Conservative Jews fall somewhere between Reform and Religious Jews as they do keep Shabbat and they do keep kosher, etc., but they observe the Torah from their own point of view.
Considered to be radicals within the Jewish community are the Neturei Karta who believe that God had promised to return the Jewish people to the Land of Israel only through the actions of the Jewish Messiah. Any activity on behalf of the Jews themselves to create or instigate this redemption is believed to hinder the coming of the messiah. Due to this, they are opposed to the occupation of Palestine and the Palestinians as well as to the existence of the state of Israel. However, many live in and visit Israel and view opposition to Zionism as an expression of love towards the Holy Land.
The grand majority of Jews, with exception to the Neturei Karta and some of the secular sect, tend to be Zionists.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Jericho's Stasi

In case anyone is interested, below is a statement given by the head of my organization Bassem Eid, of which I assisted composing. It was published in the Jerusalem Post this morning and divulges some of the current activities of the Palestinian Security Forces in the city of Jericho in the West Bank.

Jun 24, 2009 21:16 | Updated Jun 24, 2009 21:46
Jericho's Stasi

By BASSEM EID

Between 1950 and 1989 in East Germany, the Stasi persecuted individuals, journalists and intellectuals who were suspected of operating against the regime. The majority of the methods focused on eavesdropping, spying, operating agents (with one agent for every 66 people), stalking and torture. The Stasi also spied on school children, high-school students and ordinary civilians to learn about their relations with West Germany. I can assume that the Stasi didn't receive training from the same Dayton that train the Palestinian security forces in the West Bank.

However, it is very possible that Lt.-Gen. Keith W. Dayton, the US security coordinator for Israel and the Palestinian Authority, is interested in the Stasi's methods, its success in gathering information, and in recruiting citizens. The PLO had been a good friend to the Stasi. I dare to assume the PLO even operated concurrent training sessions in East Germany, and accordingly later introduced and employed these methods in Arab countries where it was based.

I'D LIKE to divulge some of the methods the agents of the Palestinian security forces use in Jericho, where I live. For instance, many taxi drivers have become agents. When in Jericho, there is no need to give the driver the address of the person you want to visit; the name is enough. While dropping off someone at a certain address, the driver contacts his operator and reports driving person A or B to C's location. Vegetable merchants and farmers have also become agents to protect their own personal interests (working on lots without permission, continuing to drive a taxi without a license, etc.). These people are forced to pay the "cheap" price of becoming an agent to secure their narrow personal interests.

A decade ago, on my first visit to Egypt, the citizens of Cairo warned me about the shoe polishers in the street, who are also in the employ of the Egyptian Security Agency. I believe that is the only thing Jericho lacks today: shoe polishers. There are several high-ranking officers who have between four and six bodyguards each. Those bodyguards act aggressively and violently, as if they constituted the government itself. Embarrassingly, in my eyes, the rule of law doesn't apply to them.

Once, I ran into an interrogator while driving and didn't notice I had been asked to pull over. He requested that I follow him to the station. My interrogator claimed to have known me for several years, after seeing me in a show on Israeli television in 1995, where I presented a harsh criticism of the Palestinian Authority. I asked him how old he had been then, and he answered 11. His vindictive behavior gave me the feeling that he has been pursuing me ever since. I decided to infuriate him even further: when he asked if I was proud to be a Palestinian, I answered "No."

THE MAIN problem with such agents, all of whom have adopted the name Abu al-Abed, is that they're the lowest form of humanity. They intimidate the common people through curses and beatings. Not satisfied with that, they spread rumors about everything they hear or see.

Jericho lives with this reality daily. Each morning you hear about girls who ran away from their West Bank homes to Jericho, traditionally considered a city of refuge, only to have the Security Agency look for them - or about girls who stayed in X's house and now the Security Agency has found them. Agents and bodyguards will often mention that they haven't receive their salaries, subtly suggesting the need for a quick bribe.

When Israel removed the checkpoint at the southern entrance to Jericho, the Palestinian Security Agency started to work harder and began to despise the local people even more. It claims that Israel has given them too much work by removing the checkpoint. I, as a Palestinian, in consideration of the Palestinian Security Agency's need to take some tasks off its shoulders, request that Israelis put back the checkpoint. But of course that is left to the judgment of Ehud Barak and not me.

After saying good-bye to one friend I met in the streets of Jericho, another would arrive and warn me that the first was under "a question mark," meaning he was apparently a security agent. Events of this sort bring me back to the 1970s, several years after the beginning of the occupation, when people in the streets of Palestine feared each other.

I would like to suggest that Gen. Dayton not just train agents in the use of weapons, beating and torture (eight prisoners have been tortured to death in Palestinian prisons so far this year: five in Gaza, three in the West Bank), but also train them how to behave among their own people. However, I don't believe that ranks high on Dayton's list of priorities.

Whenever someone is beaten or tortured, the justification given is that the person either "opposed the peace process" or "belonged to Hamas."At the end of the day, people return to their routines and shut their eyes to the reality around them.

The writer is the founder and director or the Palestinian Human Rights Monitoring Group based in east Jerusalem.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Update: Khader Shaheen's trial

For those of you who were curious, here's an update on the case of Khader Shaheen (the Palestinian journalist accused of conspiring with Iran during the recent operation in Gaza).
I attended Shaheen's trial on May 21st with my friend Sol. Sol speaks English, Hebrew and Spanish so she translated the trial (which was conducted in Hebrew) as best she could. It was relatively basic, both the defense and the prosecutor were given time to make their point and a panel of Judges assessed the information given to them. The main argument of the defense was that Shaheen had provided damaging information to Iran and that even though nothing resulted, he committed the infraction nonetheless. Additionally, even if Shaheen hadn't perceived the information provided as threatening, the defense claimed that it was indeed threatening information and that naiveté was not a justification.
The prosecution argued primarily that Shaheen was not conspiring in any way with Iran, only that his company works with TV channels in other countries including Iran. Additionally, the information given to the Iranian reporters was not detrimental to Israel and hence, nothing resulted from the information supplied.
The court was dismissed and a date was set to resume trial on June 14th. Following the trial that was set for Sunday June 14th, Khader Shaheen and his producer Muhammad Sarhan were sentenced to two months in jail accompanied by a suspended six-month term for violating the military censorship legislation during Israel’s military offensive on the Gaza strip in December and January.
The sentence for these two individuals is light, especially considering the seriousness of the allegations. However, appreciation for leniency is lost when considering that they are reaping consequences (however small) for a crime of which they are most likely innocent. It would appear that the Israeli justice system sought to prove a point and to set an example above anything else.
The Committee to Protect Journalists (one of the organizations PHRMG notified about the situation) wrote an article on the case. If you want to read more, here is the link:
http://cpj.org/2009/06/israel-sentences-two-to-prison-terms-for-censorshi.php

Saturday, June 20, 2009

To Lisa

This is a response to a comment by Lisa that was posted to one of the blogs that I published. First, I would like to thank her for reporting some inaccuracies in the post. It was not meant to be published at this time and instead of saving it as a draft it was published by mistake. The factual information in regards to the different kinds of Jews within Israel had not been researched. What was published was just me compiling my thoughts on what I had been told since I'd been here so nothing had been dissected or reorganized. It will reappear shortly after I sift through more information and I apologize to those who may have read it.
However, there were some things brought up by Lisa in her comment I would like to address. You said that, "Israel has varied mindsets and cultures, just like any other culture," and that people should not be lumped together. I agree with you. However, for the most part (and keep in mind this blog is based on my personal experiences) when it comes to politics, Israelis tend to be very united as a people. I believe here I brought up the issue of security because this is one example of where most Israelis, regardless of the differences in their religion or culture, tend to agree. Again, this is from my experience with the people that I have interacted with and for the most part, Israel always seems to be perpetually afraid of someone attacking them. I know it is dangerous to generalize any one belief to an entire people, but I have found that overall, Israelis share this fear. Furthermore, when it comes to dealing with the Palestinian population, a significant part of why they are afraid to share power is due to the fear of violence and retaliation (a fear that the actions of the Palestinians have not helped to sooth). Again, when referring to populations (such as the Palestinians and the Israelis) I do try to say things like "in general" or "this opinion is not shared by all" to try to show that there are some varied viewpoints. However, I also rely on the reader to use common sense and realize that no matter what culture or group you are talking about some variation almost always exists. In addition, there are opinions shared by the groups of people mentioned in my blog that are in overwhelming agreement on certain topics.
You also mentioned that, "not everything is Jerusalem," and I also agree. However, I live in Jerusalem and my office is based there so I have a lot of interaction in this area. It is also an area I find fascinating because of the diversity as far as what section of the city you are in (the differences between West and East, for example) and the cultural and religious elements that tend to be so visible. Contrary to the impression given in the post you responded to, I believe it is a very diverse city. I have traveled around to other parts of Israel, but I have not found opinions to differ overwhelmingly or in such great numbers. The exception to that is Tel Aviv.
I have spent time in Tel Aviv, and the people there and their opinions tend to differ so greatly from the rest of the country that I have often heard it referred to as "the state of Tel Aviv." This title is used because those inside of Tel Aviv (again, in general and from my experiences) are said to possess beliefs so varied from those outside of it that they are disconnected from the "real" Israeli culture and mentality. These are things I have heard repeated over and over by the Israelis living not only in Jerusalem, but throughout Israel. I have found myself, that those in Tel Aviv tend to be more liberal and open minded. They are also more judgmental in regards to their country and its actions especially with regard to the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict.
The posts I publish are partially to keep family and friends updated on what I'm doing and also to document the experience for myself and to provide a little insight into what is happening in this region based on my interactions. While I appreciate you following my blog and doing so with a critical eye, I also want you to keep in mind that I am writing from personal experiences. I also try to be fair in how I introduce the topics I write about and consider situations from various angles, especially because I know I have strong beliefs on a sensitive situation. Also, when I write about the opinions of the people here it is based on the statements of many from different areas (unless I have said otherwise).
Again, thank you for bringing this post to my attention and for the time you have spent following my experiences. You mentioned you would be coming to Israel yourself soon so if you need recommendations on places to stay/see or perhaps would like to discuss your own experiences with me while you're here, please feel free to let me know.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Checkpoints

Every time I travel throughout Israel/Palestine, there are multiple checkpoints that need to be crossed. I keep my passport on me at all the times and make sure that I don’t have anything in my possession that could be incriminating or misinterpreted in case I should be searched (which has happened on multiple occasions).
I have shown pictures of the checkpoints in my albums so there is a basic idea of what they look like. Cars drive through and show their identification cards classifying what category they belong to and where they are allowed to travel according to the affiliation they have been given (Israeli, Palestinian, Muslim, Jew, etc.). There are always multiple soldiers armed with M16s monitoring the checkpoint and cars frequently pulled over while random searches are conducted.
These checkpoints frequently create traffic jams and hardships on Palestinians when traveling to and from work or school. Many qualify as illegal outposts set up without formal government permission. While these outposts are considered illegal by the international community, Israel does not perceive them as such and the Israeli army has the authority to construct them where they deem appropriate.
Israel promised to evacuate these structures three years ago, but one has yet to be evacuated within this time frame; instead, the outposts acquired 560 new structures (mostly caravans but also permanent buildings). At the start of Ehud Olmert's tenure (the former Prime Minister of Israel serving from 2006-2009), 475 roadblocks and checkpoints existed in the West Bank. Their purpose was and continues to be security. However, with tension subsiding and suicide bombings ended, the number was supposed to be reduced. Instead, according to the UN, by January this year there were more than 600.
When I asked local nongovernmental organizations in the area if this was indeed the case, they also confirmed the rising number of checkpoints. Individuals must cross through a checkpoint whether they are going into an area or coming out of an area. What is happening is that Israel will close down one part of a given checkpoint. For example, they will still keep the part of the checkpoint open where people are evaluated before entering a given area, but close the portion of the checkpoint where people would be evaluated when they are leaving. When this occurs, Israel reports that the entire checkpoint has been removed, when in fact only half of it has been disabled. This allows them to lie to the US and international community to give the illusion that progress is being made and that they are complying with their responsibilities.
There are two different kinds of checkpoints. Permanent checkpoints are just that, solid buildings that consistently maintain their current position. Flying checkpoints are temporary and can be removed and placed in another location at any given time. They are used when the IDF (Israeli Defense Forces) suspect a specific individual or groups of individuals may be frequenting a certain area in order to take their target into custody or inhibit them from traveling to their intended destination.
It is interesting to note that these permanent checkpoints draw more than just civilians passing through. Checkpoints cause traffic jams and back ups. As a result, you have people sitting in line in their vehicles sometimes for hours on end, but what is a painful wait for those passing through becomes a business endeavor for others. First unemployed Palestinians and children sent out by their parents arrive and proceed to go from vehicle to vehicle selling everything from gum to sunglasses. Eventually, tents selling fruits, vegetables, and a variety of other wares take residence on the side of the street near the checkpoint. If business is more successful than in the towns or camps they currently reside, these merchants begin to set up buildings or structures where they can live during the day and sleep at night. The progression continues until a town actually forms around the checkpoint.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Belly Dancing

In order to further my cultural experience, I started taking belly dancing classes with Dina. For not understanding what the instructor is saying and for this being my first belly dancing experience, I’d say I’m not half bad. The dances are fun and of course, very sensual. I’ll have to take some pictures next time I go. Last Sunday after our class, Dina and I joined in for some traditional Israeli dancing in the building below. I may be decent at belly dancing, but I had no clue what was gong on in this dance experience. Thankfully, Dina didn’t either. The two of us were probably the only ones there under 50, but we both had fun laughing at ourselves through the experience. Everyone started out dancing in a circle and then would break off into different areas of the room depending on the place in the song (traditional Hebrew music with a slightly modern twist), and depending on the song itself. Each song had a different dance and there were alternate variations of each dance. It kind of reminded me of that scene in Fiddler on the Roof when the men are dancing to celebrate the engagement of Tevye’s daughter Tzeitel to the butcher Lazar Wolf, but fast forward a few years and add in two awkward young women.

Benyamina

Tal’s family lives in the North of Israel in a small village called Binyamina. He and Dina were going to visit this past weekend and they invited me along to see the country and meet the rest of their family.
Once Tal picked me up from the bus station, we went to a parade in his village that was in honor of Shavuot, the Feast of Weeks, which is in celebration of the harvest. Children and their families were driving in tractors and running along side the street. Everyone met up at the town schoolyard and there was a potluck waiting. One of the traditions of this holiday is the consumption of dairy products so most of the food was made with milk or cheese.
The next day, Tal and I packed lunch and we went riding on his quad (a small four wheel vehicle made for going off road). We went all over the countryside and saw some beautiful sites. The scenery is very different from the south; very wooded and agricultural. Tal taught me how to drive the quad (so much fun) and we went over some jumps and rocky landscape so I felt like I was on a ride the whole time. I also got a lesson in navigation from Tal as we made our way from one place to another.
We went to a few springs, an army training camp in the hills, many different orchards and a few spots Tal and his friends use to frequent when they were growing up.
Upon our return Tal’s mother, Anat, and little brother, Guy, had an incredible meal waiting. One thing I’ve noticed is that meals here (both Arab and Israeli) consist of multiple dishes (multiple fruits, salad, humus, cheeses, bread, spreads, olives, pickles, a meat dish, another main dish of some kind, and dessert) so getting to the table is both exciting and overwhelming. Tal’s family was very welcoming and hospitable. Tal’s mother tried to make it clear that I was invited back with or without Tal. It was refreshing to get a different set of scenery and be with a family for a while.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Benjamin Pogrund

Bassem and I gave a tour of Ramallah to a man by the name of Benjamin Pogrund (a good friend of Bassem's) in order to give him an idea of how things are progressing in this part of the occupied territories. Benjamin Pogrund is a South African born Jew who worked as a journalist at the Rand Daily Mail in Johannesburg. Because of his work against the Apartheid, he was imprisoned and eventually deported to London and now lives in Israel. He is also the director and founder of Yakar's Center for Social Concern. This organization unites Jews from different backgrounds and orientations for learning, prayer, and social action. You can learn more by visiting his website at www.yakar.org/eng/
Benjamin is a fascinating individual who was more than happy to discuss aspects of the conflict with me as we toured Ramallah. He made two points that I thought were worth reiterating. One, that this conflict is not restricted to just Israeli versus Palestinian. It’s a bureaucracy; it’s an example of what results when you give one people power over another. Second, the conflict is making money. Israel and the Palestinian government (if you can actually call it a government) benefit from the conflict, though the Palestinian people do not. International support helps fuel the situation. For example, Europe pays for the salary of the PA (Palestinian Authority) in order to increase security abroad. This means they are contributing over one hundred million dollars a month simply to allow the PA to function, and this includes the salaries of over 160,000 employees in the West Bank. The Palestinian Authority is an extremely corrupt organization that takes from the people instead of providing for them. There are endless instances of torture and harassment on the part of the PA in order to provoke Palestinian civilians to provide them with money and other resources. You can recognize when they drive by not only because of the identifying license plate, but because they all drive brand new Audis. They are also known to lead very extravagant lifestyles in general including indulgences such as grand parties, multiple houses, and luxurious amenities. While the people in power enjoy a frivolous lifestyle, 80% of Palestinians in Gaza and 46% in the West Bank continue to live below the poverty line.
Israel is making billions of dollars a year off the worsening situation in Gaza. Anything that goes into Gaza from fuel to diapers (whether smuggled, imported or carried in) comes from Israel. They too are financed by the international community to assist with maintaining order.
While Ramallah itself has become an expensive and developing city, the majority of the West Bank (and of course the mess that is Gaza) lack basic amenities such as sewage systems, water, employment opportunities, health care, and education. Roads and public areas are filthy and merchandise of all kinds is dirt cheap as no one can afford to purchase anything. I have been to a few butcheries in the area and multiple times I have seen children sent by their parents come in and ask if they could take the chicken heads from the garbage. They can't eat the heads, but their families can cook them in a soup so that at least it has the flavor of chicken.
Benji, who is a Jew himself (one of the few in Israel who support the Palestinian cause) points out that this is one of the failures of the Jews as an occupying force. They insist on maintaining their position of power over the Palestinians, but neglect to live up the the responsibilities of that position.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Freak Show

Dina, one of my roommates, is studying art and graphic design. Her work is pretty impressive and diverse. If you want to check it out she has a web page and flickr site below:
http://www.dina.co.il
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dinakof/
One of Dina’s teachers was hired to create some of the props for a performance in one of the villages in Jerusalem. Dina and Tal (her husband) were invited to attend and asked me to join. They are determined to show me all aspects of Israel which is wonderful because I get to see cultural events such as this.
This was such an amazing experience and right up my ally. When we arrived, everyone was divided into three groups and you saw certain skits depending on the status you received. Tal, Dina and I were wardens, I’m not sure about the second status, but the third was slave. The entire performance was based off a carnival side show and when we got there everyone was in character. The skits we saw included the smallest women, a man being eaten by a vulture, a man who’d gone insane, the world’s biggest bachelor, and a group of five dancers who lived on the roofs of the village.
The skits were very dark and creative. This was emphasized by the fact that the building we were in was a prison which had been turned into a museum dedicated to preserving the prison’s history. Each performance took place in a different part of the prison. Pictures of the art work done by Dina’s teacher are posted below.
It was hard for me to understand fully what was going on because it was all in Hebrew (despite Tal’s attempts to translate for me), but the whole thing evolved around the idea that there was only one prisoner in the prison. Tal said he was a prisoner in his own mind so I assume this was supposed to be metaphorical. The performances culminated with the prisoner carrying out his own execution. We saw his performance last (my personal favorite; the use of lighting, scenery and props were incredibly well balanced making it by far the most disturbing). After his character performed the entire audience, regardless of rank, met in the quad of the prison for a live music performance and dance that portrayed his suicide.
The entire thing was very organized and you the combination of music, lighting and acting very well coordinated. It was easy to find yourself lost in the show.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Amnesty International Reports

Here is Amnesty's annual report on Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories:
http://thereport.amnesty.org/en/regions/middle-east-north-africa/israel-occupied-territories

Here is Amnesty's annual report entry on the Palestinian Authority:
http://thereport.amnesty.org/en/regions/middle-east-north-africa/palestinian-authority

These both give decent (though brief) descriptions of the activities that have taken place within the past year which have contributed to the volatility of this region.