Thursday, October 1, 2009

Arrival to Yemen

Phase two of what has developed into over a year long trip has officially begun with my start in Yemen. I was a little apprehensive about my new job at first, as I’d hoped to focus solely on human rights, however I wanted to experience life in Yemen after hearing of it to be a place rich in Arab culture and traditions with fascinating architecture and natural beauty. I also sought to be exposed to the lifestyle of an extremely poor country. Yemen has its own set of problems and dangers which drew my fascination, from women’s rights to poverty, from the war in the North to the kidnapping of internationals.
I knew that in order for me to travel to Yemen as safely as possible I would need a framework. Ultimately, my position ended up much more rewarding and relevant than originally conceived. My official title is Student Affairs and Special Programs Coordinator for the Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies (YCMES). I handle two main projects, one being the Zeytun project: a political and cultural exchange program between students in Amsterdam and students in Yemen. I am currently conducting interviews with applicants from Yemen and will soon be assisting a professor in constructing the details of the class “Democracy and Dictatorship in Europe,” which the chosen applicants will attend before traveling to Amsterdam at the completion of the course for a 10 day retreat. I will need to organize cultural events, meetings with ambassadors, visits non-governmental organizations, and other relevant activities for the Yemeni students and those from Amsterdam who come to Yemen. In addition, I am in charge of the general welfare of the international students at YCMES (which means being on call 24/7) and planning all the cultural events (a daily occurrence here) which range from political lectures, cultural discussions, trips on the weekends, Yemeni cooking classes, Arab movie nights, etc.
So far things are going well and I’ve loved spending time with foreign students, all of which are very enthusiastic about Arabic culture and language. Most are my age or older working on their Masters, PhD, or simply studying Arabic. They’ve gone out of their way to introduce me to their Yemeni connections and friendship circles which has allowed me to view the culture here from the inside.
Now that I’m settling in, I am also looking into writing articles for the magazine “Yemen Today” and working as an editor for the local paper “Yemen Times.” Additionally, there is a nongovernmental organization that deals in women’s rights that I’ve also considered volunteering for.
A little bit so far on Yemen: It is amazingly beautiful here in the city of Sana’a; the architecture is stunning! It feels like I’ve traveled back in time a thousand years whenever I look out my window. The people are warm and friendly, though very poor and uneducated. It is definitely more conservative here than in Palestine/Israel and despite the layers of clothing I put on, I still feel like an alien when going out in public. I haven’t gotten sick yet, but I know it’s just a matter of time. The students and staff all say to just let it happen. Apparently it’s a right of passage here as sanitation is less than top notch. Power and water are both a big issue. The power and Internet shut off on a daily basis, sometimes for hours at a time, and water also periodically runs out. Oh, third world countries.

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