Post Yemen I continued to do work for MWF via the wonders of the Internet after returning to the US. I never wrote a final blog entry. I ended up staying in Yemen slightly longer than expected, but I guess I never felt the experience really ended and hence, was never able to achieve that moment of retrospection where experiences could be filtered and connected. My time in the Middle East has had two years to process and its digestion will most likely be a lifelong endeavor, one that continues to transform as I do.
I feel the urge to try to wrap it all up even now, but there are no words that can give rightful meaning to the things I saw and participated in, to the people I met, to the places I ventured, and to the immense and indescribable ways in which it all became me.
Thank you to all those who followed my travels. I'm amazed at the amount of emails I still receive inquiring about my experiences or asking for advice as they set out on their own adventures. Keep 'em coming!
That first month back to the US was a very difficult time for me. I returned to a group of wonderful people, but people who had no understanding of so much of what my life abroad entailed. More importantly, I went from doing something new, challenging, and risky on a daily basis to being stagnant, and it felt like I was suffocating. The overwhelming anxiety I was introduced to slowly dissipated as the months dragged on, but has never fully left me.
I got a job bartending, moved to San Francisco, and interned with the International Refugee Committee as a Casework Assistant all the while studying for the GRE and applying to grad schools. This past August, I moved to Washington DC to pursue a Master's degree in International Relations with an emphasis in Diplomacy in the Middle East. And now I find myself following up this blog in the most appropriate place possible, back in Israel where it began.
My grad school program offers courses over the year in various locations throughout the world so when I heard of the course in Israel titled "the Intersection of Israeli Foreign and Domestic Policy," there really wasn't anything to consider except for deadlines. I came to Av'iel a week and a half early to stay with my former flatmates Dina and Tal and finally got to meet their now two year old daughter, Noga. Staying with them has been refreshing, we just picked up where we left off.
After Israel/Palestine I will be heading to Morocco to do research under the supervision of AmidEast. I'll be researching why a policy passed in 2004 that elevated the rights of women and gave them legal recognition has not contributed to decreased rates of domestic violence in Rabat. Afterwards I'll head to Mombasa, Kenya where I'll be meeting Kim, my good friend whom I met in Sana'a, who is studying Swahili there for her PhD. Kim and I intend to travel through Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, and Ethiopia before calling it quits for the summer and heading back to our respective educational responsibilities.
So, then the question remains: should I restart my blogging efforts and if so, should it be on the same blog I created the last time around? That answer remains to be seen. I have to think it over the next few days and decide if I'm up for it again and if round two would be appropriate on the same platform as before.
International Women's Day fell on March 8th of this month so I covered an event thrown by the US embassy at the National Museum in its honor for Yemen Today. You can read about the event below:
International Women’s Day, Brought to You by Sana’a
On March 8th of every year since its recognition by the UN 1975, women in various regions of the world are acknowledged for their achievements as individuals who are making positive contributions to the welfare and progress of their society. The connotations of this day are significant on an international scale, but for women living in countries where the acquisition of the most basic of human rights is a struggle, International Women’s Day is an emblem not only of what has been achieved, but of what can be.
Nowhere else is this more relevant than in Yemen, where women are making bold strides in the midst of a country that earned the lowest ranking in gender inequality out of the 130 countries cited in the 2008 World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap report. To properly commemorate the occasion the US Embassy co-organized an event with the group Kuni wa Kun (a youth-led initiative) at the National Museum on Monday, March 8, 2010. The celebration centered on the recognition of six outstanding Yemeni women, but also included an art gallery displaying unique pieces either by or in honor of women and women’s rights, in addition to a musical performance.
Doors opened at 8:30am and speeches commenced at 9:00am, beginning with Amal al-Ashtal of Kuni wa Kuni who provided a brief statement on International Women’s Day and its relation to Yemeni society and youth. She was followed by Abdul Aziz al-Jindari, director of the National Museum, who spoke of the status of women throughout ancient history in correlation with the museum’s anticipated exhibit featuring Yemen's ancient queens: Arwa, Balqees, and Saba'a.
Angie Bryan, Deputy Chief of Mission at the US embassy, provided the keynote speech, briefly touching on the history of International Women’s Day and connecting it to women’s rights in Yemen at present. She mentioned areas of concern in Yemen, but also provided examples of progress, citing quotes by United States President Obama, introducing initiatives on the part of USAID, and honoring six women who’ve displayed exceptional leadership and initiative in furthering women’s rights in Yemen with a certificate of "Courage," signed by U.S. Ambassador to Yemen Stephen Seche. The women recognized included:
Nujood al-Ahdal, who was married at 9 years of age to a man three times that who inflicted emotional and physical abuse. She sought human rights lawyer, Shada Nasser, who represented Nujood in court where she was granted a divorce.
Reem al-Numery, at 12 years old, was forced to marry her 30-year-old cousin and was also able to achieve a divorce from the Yemeni Court System.
Tawakul Karman, Chairman of the NGO "Women Journalists without Chains," works in defense of freedom of the press and human rights in Yemen. Additionally, she is the only women out of the 13 members on the "Shura Council" of the Islah party, and the first activist to launch in 2007 the "Phase of Protests and Sit-ins" in Yemen.
Arwa Ali Saeed Abdullah, who at 10 years of age, lost both of her legs in a land mine accident while roaming the hillsides of her city, works with Yemen's Association of Landmine Survivors as an advocate for the victims of landmines.
Fatima al-Agel, a woman who has been striving to defend the rights of disabled girls for more than 17 years, established the first school for blind females in 1995. She founded the Al Amaan Foundation for Disabled Females' Care in 1995 and currently works with some 800 females across Yemen to integrate disabled girls into schools, universities and the workforce.
Jamala al-Baidhani founded the Altahade Association for Disabled Females to help girls with disabilities in Yemen. Despite disabilities of her own, she earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Social Sciences and in 2006, launched the Alesrar NGO for Youth Development, which enlists volunteers to work on behalf of disabled people.
Once the speeches were concluded, Angie Bryan and Abdul Aziz initiated the opening of the art gallery officially by cutting the ribbon draped across the entrance. The gallery held various exhibits, including paintings, miniatures of traditional customs and practices, silver work, and caricatures. The artists featured included:
Jumana al-Shami, Areej al-Eryani, Ali al-Ma’abari, Howaida al-Kibsi, Sara al-Sami’i, Kamal Sharaf, Arwa al-Yarimi, and Nawal al-Mutwakil.
Today was a good day. One that reminded me how much I do love Yemen and how, despite times of frustration, I could see myself living here for a longer period of time than planned.
My friend Marwa had myself, Kim and a mutual friend, Amal, over to her house for lunch today. Marwa pulled out all the spreads and served us a very impressive meal. After which we went to the the only bowling ally in Sana'a (and quite possibly in Yemen) and had a good laugh as we all pulled out our own bowling techniques.
After bowling, Kim and I then headed to a Yemeni professor's home on the outskirts of Sana'a University. Every Thursday from 4-9 he opens his house to Yemeni intellectuals, artists, and the like to join his family and provide a gateway to those in the foreign community. There is conversation, live music, poetry readings, and room for whatever else you care to express. Today there were folks from America, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, France, and Italy. Many continue to appear to the occasion week after week and I understand why. The relaxed atmosphere, opportunity to meet new people, local and foreign alike, the good food (sambosas-warm pastry filled with meat, vegetables and spices, plus date cookies, tea, etc.), provide a cozy surrounding reminiscent of that I get from family and friends at home. People range in age from youth to the elderly with a few children present.
As mentioned in a prior post, I've done well for myself in Yemen in terms of making it a home. I've been able to establish myself in the traditions here, I know the transportation system and general location of things, I've set up a friend base both local and foreign and become secure in the opportunities available to me (journalism, volunteering, tutoring, etc.).
I'm facing the same reality as the one at the end of my stay in Palestine: that I have a supportive and interesting community and life set up for myself, and people, adventures, and opportunities that I'll shortly be leaving behind.
The fact that this time around I will be coming home has been weighing on my mind and while I am in desperate need of a break, I wonder how long I will be able to stay country bound before longing to catch the next wind. I'm already trying to make a possible trip in September to the area as some good friends of mine in Israel will be having a baby this summer, two in Jordan will be getting married at this time, and one in Palestine keeps reminding me of how I didn't have time to properly say goodbye and therefore, owe them a visit.
I'm hoping I can make this happen, especially since I'd also like to revisit Dar Meir Musa in Syria for some spiritual rejuvenation. While I'm so grateful for all the wonderful people that have touched my life in my travels, the geographical distance that will continue to grow in the next week is a big downer.
There is so much to digest, not just from Yemen, but from Palestine and Israel as well. Right now, I'm too preoccupied with closing things up here, seeing friends, and tying off work to allow that to happen. Actually, I don't think its possible to fully let the experience settle as of yet since I'm still in it. The airplane ride back will certainly be an interesting one I'm sure.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to wrap up a proposal to the European Commission, do a little shopping in the Old City, head off to my friend Huda's home for dinner and an Arab movie night, then try to prepare myself for my last day in Yemen.
It occurred to me that I never put up the link for the magazine I work for as a freelance journalist. This month two of my articles are featured on the main web page of Yemen Today (directly under the rotating pictures to the left) under the labels 7 and 9.
http://www.yemen-today.com/go/
Here's an article I wrote for Yemen Today Magazine on education in Yemen:
It was Aristotle who said, “All who have meditated on the art of governing mankind have been convinced that the fate of empires depends on the education of youth.” Education enables social progress and reform and remains the most reliable catalyst of change. It teaches society to organize its resources and priorities, therefore allowing it to navigate its way in the direction of its choosing. In this day and age, being denied an education is not only damaging to an individual on a personal level, but translates to the society as a whole.
Every nation houses a ratio of individuals that lack a proper education, and while this number fluctuates depending on the area in question, in Yemen, with an adult literacy rate of 54% according to USAID, it seems that those possessing a solid education are the exception, not the rule. In addition to low numbers in participation, especially in regards to females whose attendance rate is only 45% in primary school and 15% secondary school, the quality of the educational content received is also in question.
There are two types of educational systems in Yemen, government funded schools (equivalent to public schools) and non-government funded schools (equivalent to private schools). I spoke with two employees of Shebab Net Radio Station, Mohammed Al-Selwi, Manager, and Sherine Al-Aghabri Assistant Manager and Program Representative, to get some feedback on the educational system from those still closely involved in the area. Shebab Net is an internet based broadcasting company that focuses on a variety of social issues, but puts emphasis on those surrounding education. Mohammed feels there is a significant difference between governmental versus non-governmental schools. “Teachers get paid more so they have money for more resources and are more motivated to teach,” he explained. “There are also more activities, more opportunities to study lab sciences, more libraries and a larger network of computers.” Sherine feels that the “smaller teacher to student ratio and more focused learning environment” are the main differences between the two institutions. Both felt that while parents pay more to send their students to non-governmental institutions, even these schools are decreasing their standards with time.
A teacher at a local governmental Middle school in Sana’a referred to as Khalid under his request to remain anonymous, holds similar views and feels that the corrupt nature of the system is mostly to blame. “Corruption happens in all of the governmental schools, but also in the non-governmental institutions, just in a slightly different way. In most of the private schools there is not an honest educational system, the real goal is investment. You can imagine what kind of education you will get when this is the goal.”
Referring more in depth to the issue of corruption, Khalid continued to explain that the administration that heads his school has little to no experience in their current positions. “The directors of the school don’t have experience; they got their position because they have a good relationship with a shake or figure of authority.” He explained that when he visits most schools he feels as though, “It’s a school for one family from the perspective of administration because the staff and teachers are all from the same family or party or tribe or have a mutual friend of importance. It’s impossible for someone to become the director unless they have a relationship with someone of importance and share the same ideas as that person.”
Khalid, very passionate about the issue, mentioned that in addition to lacking an administration with any experience, the government does not have enough facilities to meet the needs of the students. “The problem is the crowded schools, imagine if in one class there were over 100 students. How can 100 students learn in 40 minutes or from one teacher?” Khalid continued to explain that under such circumstances, both he and the students get frustrated with one another as he wants the students to be attentive and engaged while the students, young and without a proper structure, just want to play. He mentioned, “I’m very lucky to only have between 50 and 54 students in my class.” Apparently, because his school is one of the higher ranking in Sana’a, they are able to attain more government support than most, allowing them to have reduced class sizes in comparison to other schools.
Sherine and Mohammed from Shebab Net only supported Khalid’s statements. “Not all the teachers are experienced in what they teach; they need to be more qualified. In Yemen, it’s like anyone can teach with no real qualifications,” reported Sherine. In addition to the lack of qualifications and experience, she continued to tell me that often, teachers are suppose to teach a certain amount of material within a designated time frame, such as a certain amount of chapters in the class book per year, but often fail to meet this standard. Mohammed added that, “There’s no one monitoring teachers in the school system here so they don’t do their job since no one is there to keep them in check.”
Teaching methods in Yemen or lack there of, often require youth to educate themselves, but with limited resources and motivation, the results are not uplifting. “In middle school science books,” Sherine described, “there’s no information inside of them. There are mostly pictures and questions, but when the students ask the teachers about the missing information they say it’s intended to be this way because the teachers want the students to go and look for the information themselves, but this isn’t always possible.”
Furthermore, when students do get the opportunity to learn, teaching methods fail to take a hands on approach. “Subjects like computer science are taught with books instead of actual computers due to a shortage of supplies,” explained Mohammed. “One month, when I was attending Abdul Nasser High School, ranked as one of the best schools in Yemen, we only had one lab science class a month and when we did finally go, we didn’t do anything. The lab was exactly the same as the normal science class.” He emphasized his frustration with the inadequacy of the school system in Yemen by telling me how he was helping his nephew with his math homework and realized the math book he was learning from hadn’t been updated in 21 years.
Concerning as this information may be, these experiences are coming from individuals that reside inside Sana’a, a well developed city in Yemen compared to the structure that exists in the rural areas, where 80% of the population takes residence. If resources and teaching qualifications are suffering to this degree in the city, it can only be assumed that the problems are magnified in areas where communication, transportation, and resources are in greater scarcity.
Overwhelmed by the large obstacles which seem to permeate the school system in Yemen, I moved on to the more focused issue of school supplies, asking Khalid if schools provide books for students. “Not always,” he answered, “A lot of students complain that they don’t have books. At beginning of the school year all the students pay a small sum covering registration fees and books, however not all receive the books they pay for. Often, if students register late then they won’t receive books.” He estimates that around 15-20% of students don’t receive books and must buy from outside sources, but this is expensive and not usually feasible. In Sherine and Mohammed’s experience, they usually had to buy their books from outside sources which, was often expensive and the books could be a challenge to locate.
Other issues, such as parental support, are also a factor. Khalid feels that in general, parents want their students to get an education. Sherine partially agreed, stating that, “If parents are educated then they’ll push their children to receive an education as well. If parents aren’t educated they tend to only encourage their sons to go to school until they can read and write, but after that school is no longer seen as important. I feel this has encouraged youth to not care about education.”
In addition to all these factors, Sherine and Mohammed informed me that if a student doesn’t do well in school and can’t get into a college because their grades aren’t adequate, that student can buy their way into a university. Apparently this is a common occurrence which negatively affects the caliber of University participants as well as the general academic atmosphere while decreasing competition. Mohammed furthered this point by saying that “Because of this, often people in high positions, such as doctors and engineers, don’t really know what they’re doing. As a result there’s a lack of trust between the community and these educated professionals.”
Khalid told me that, “A country’s educational system is like a headline for the society as a whole. If there’s a decent educational system, there tends to be good health care, security, and so on also in place.” If Yemen’s overall progress in its various sectors of society is any reflection of the success of its educational system, then education is screaming for attention. Is anyone listening?
In the event that you or someone you know might visit Sana’a in the near future, here’s a little info on the public transportation system in Yemen. Basically, there are two options for maneuvering within the city: taxis and dubabs.
A taxi is self explanatory in its title. In Yemen, most taxis are white with yellow painted onto all four corners of the car. This color taxis does not have a meter or “ad-dud” so you have to barter for a price. Other taxis with a meter come in red and yellow or completely yellow. The bonus of a taxi with a meter is usually they know the location of the place you want to go.
Let me explain that most taxi drivers only work as such part time, most work in other fields, but are either unable to find employment in their profession or only do so part time because their profession alone is not a substantial income so those lucky enough to have the means will drive a taxi.
Red or completely yellow taxis work for companies (whereas as yellow and white taxis are self employed), so they tend to have a better conception of where things are. I never take these however, since most of the time the meter has been tampered with so you end up getting overcharged.
If you’re a foreigner and you barter with a yellow and white taxi, the driver will almost always try to overcharge by at least double. This is why I barter before getting into the taxi, never after. A ten minute cab ride usually costs around 200 rials (though sometimes you have to make more that one attempt) or about $1.00. A 15-20 minute cab ride will cost around 250-350 rials ($1.25-$1.50).
Some cars will say they’re taxis, but have no color distinction. These are not taxis, do not get in them. Some cars will also try to pull over with a driver and another person (man) in the front seat. Whether they have a color distinction or not, do not get in them.
A dubab is a minivan (a very mini van, just an fyi) that is as close to a bus as you’ll get in Sana’a. They will pull over at any point and are labeled by color, number, and area (for instance Bab al-Yemen, etc.). Their exact route, however, will only become known when you become a frequent rider as the streets of Sana’a are a maze and so are the routes they take. The typical dubab price is 20 rials (10 cents) and it will take you a far distance. You do feel somewhat like a sardine as these minivans will cram as many people inside as possible.
As a foreign woman I get a little more leeway, but normally Yemeni women sit together without men next to them and in the back of the minivan. I found this statement funny after writing it because it makes it seem like there’s a proper front and back to these dubabs, but there isn’t.
I try to take dubabs as frequently as possible, but sometimes my destination is either unknown to myself (especially for when I do interviews for Yemen Today Magazine) or not on a main road in which case I’m forced to take a taxi. Either way, in Sana’a, your destination is never that far away, though it may be well hidden, but ask enough people and eventually you’ll get where you need to be.
I have been beyond busy these past two weeks trying to wrap up my life here in a way that I'm satisfied with. While the reality that I will be returning home after more than a year abroad is weighing on my mind, the process of closing all my commitments isn't giving me too much time to reflect. I've been scampering to finish magazine articles and interviews, wind things up with my job at MWF, plan my last teaching lessons for French, trying to find homes for my kittens (yes, they survived), and meet up with those whom have made my life here worthwhile.
In both Palestine/Israel and Yemen I have been able to attain solid communities for myself. Part of me regrets having to return to the States as I have so many amazing opportunities here and wonderful ties in both the Yemeni and foreign communities. When I look at what I'm accomplishing given my age and experience, I feel so fortunate.
I will say more as I get closer to my departure, but I am also looking forward to seeing my family and friends back home. Especially in the way of friends, I always knew how valuable mine were and how lucky I was to have them, but this experience has solidified my view of them as family. I have been phenomenally impressed by their efforts to keep involved in my life and I can't wait to share stories when I get back.
Nine days and counting...
At Media Women Forum, my position requires me to make connections with ambassadors, ministers, other nongovernmental organizations, representatives from various embassies and other organizations of the like. Usually, I try to communicate MWF's work and open the door for possible partnerships and funding opportunities. Most of this occurs during the work day at the office, lunch meetings or during visits to other organizations, but also at parties and dinners that tend to take place during the weekends. I usually meet some very interesting people during these events and have been able to forge relationships (especially with women) that would not have otherwise been feasible. Therefore, I can’t complain too much about the effort it takes for me to look past the discomfort that commonly crowds these scenarios.
The people who attend these parties often know two or three other people there which means they must forge out and make conversation with unknowns, but always accompanied by an agenda. It’s the agenda, the air of pretentiousness, and the awkward mingling reminiscent of a middle school dance floor during a slow song which summons my apprehension. Thankfully, for the sake of my job, I can gracefully navigate through these social situations without incurring too much damage along the way. Unfortunately, for every interesting individual at these functions there tend to be two or more not so time worthy folks who want nothing, but your time.
Last night, I got stuck in an interaction with a not so time worthy gentlemen, though thankfully not for too long as I am also well equipped with a variety of exit strategies well suited for an array of unique social entrapments. The man in question held a significant role at the Turkish Embassy and has been in Yemen for three months, but lived in Syria for three years prior to. He was telling me about how it was very difficult for him to make relationships with the Yemeni community. He also asked me basic questions a foreigner would ask, such as “am I paying too much for my apartment,” which he is by the way, by about double.
The conversation went on like this and I asked him how his Arabic was. In Yemen, a lot depends on who you know so if he was unable to barter with his renter he would need to have a Yemeni friend or even acquaintance help him out. He told me he was intermediate in fous-ha and was taking lessons as it would further his career goals, but had no interest in learning spoken Arabic.
For those who are unaware, written Arabic (known as fous-ha) is a different language than spoken Arabic (colloquial) and depending on which country you are in, spoken Arabic changes quite drastically. For instance, when I speak in a Palestinian dialect in Yemen no one understands a word I’m saying. There are even different dialects within the different regions of Yemen.
How someone can live in Syria for three years (a country where English is still not prevalent) and not be at least intermediate in spoken Arabic is beyond me. Though frankly, for the amount of time he spent there and the nature of his position he should be fluent by now. Hearing him say that he had no interest in learning the spoken dialect was when I pulled out exit strategy number 57, join the Yemeni women in the Sanani dances taking place which was made conveniently easy when Menal, one of the women there, offered me her hand right as the conversation took the plummet. However, I had to fight my urge to pull out exit strategy number 11, put to use those kickboxing skills I’ve been teaching the girls here.
This is a prime example of how many of the bigger organizations that are blessed with a significant amount of money, power, and influence, are so disconnected from the society they intend to help. NGOs have their issues, but not understanding the people isn’t one of them. No wonder he doesn’t have any Yemeni friends or connections and no wonder he’s overpaying for his apartment and who knows what else. Language is a portal, a door, a connection. How can he expect to really understand Yemen, its people and its various problems if he can’t even speak the language?
Educated people who have no excuse to possess this degree of ignorance are much more prevalent than I would like to admit and their ethnicities are international. Knowing that these people exist in such great numbers is beyond disappointing, but helps me understand why many foreign organizations, despite their desire to aid the population at hand, are often welcomed with apprehension by the natives.
Yemen is a land of much natural diversity and breathtaking architecture. From dry deserts to hot springs, seas, valleys, and mountains, there seems to be something for everyone. Unfortunately, many places in the North and South are off limits due to the political unrest that makes traveling there a significant risk. Nonetheless, I've managed to get around more than most, but I realized that despite the many places I'd traveled to I've been slacking on posting pictures. I will blame the exceedingly slow internet connection for my laziness. Uploading pictures is often a three day process. However, I did finally manage to post a few pictures chronicling my travels throughout the country on the album titled "The Many Sides of Yemen." Hopefully it will give you a more accurate perception of Yemen, at least visually.
Alright, for all you men out there I'm sure you're getting tired of my increasing emphasis on the female population in Yemen, but the women here are amazing on so many levels that I have to add a little more on the topic before slowing down.
Its no secret that the lives of women in Yemen are severely limited by their male counterparts, and sometimes by the female population itself. What is secret and in many ways, sacred, is how they persevere in a culture that refuses to acknowledge them as unique and capable individuals.
I was invited to a birthday party this weekend for a very progressive and well traveled Yemeni woman, but a Yemeni woman nonetheless. Her background was the reason for the diverse crowd that attended (all were young women living in Yemen, but originating from Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Turkey, and Hungry, just to name a few), however, all the other details of the event could have been found in an isolated room in the family home of any Yemeni woman.
Men are not allowed to these kinds of gatherings as they are restricted only to women. The presence of the opposite sex is a main motivation for young women in the States and I assume throughout much of the western world, to look their best and cut loose at social gatherings. There have been many times where I remember my female acquaintances backing out of an invite because the anticipated crowd was not up to their standards in terms of the male population or the like.
Women in Yemen put on their finest dresses, show skin (frequently lots of skin), wear make-up, and dance and sing for no one, but themselves and the other women in attendance. Smoking sheisha, chewing qat, and eating goodies are usually at the middle of these gatherings along with, of course, the privilege of allowing themselves to say what they want and do what they want without the same kind of restriction that normally intervenes in their lives.
The birthday party that I attended was a costume party. Kim (my eternal partner in crime when it comes to navigating Yemen) and myself were given last minute notice and seeing as neither of us had a costume on hand nor the money or the will to put one together in such a short time frame, showed up as our foreign selves. When we arrived, we were greatly outdone by the rest of the women there and I was impressed how, with the few resources available, they were able to put together such detailed costumes. Another testament to their appreciation for moments such as these.
There is no great climax to this blog entry so I won't pretend to end it with one. It's simply a testament to the humanity of women and the strength that it takes to find happiness in a society where life evolves around the basics of survival, where the woman under the robe blends into the background as an exotic picture on a postcard.
So I know that its been almost two months since my trip to Syria so I apologize for only now posting pictures, but the internet here has been intolerable so it took me a while. Its just a small sample as not all the pictures are loading properly (thank you Yemen internet), but hopefully you can get a glimpse of my Syrian experience. Check them out under the obvious album title "Syria."
Lately I've been expressing my frustrations with certain aspects of Yemeni society so I feel it appropriate to list some of the random kindhearted acts I have experienced here as well. As I've said before, the magnitude of Arab hospitality is overwhelming at times, but Yemenis take it to a whole new level. Here are just a few stories worth mentioning:
When I was looking for the Yemen Today Office for my first writers meeting way back in October, I got lost in the maze that is Sana'a. I asked a street vendor if he knew where the place was and he literally left his store and walked with me for a good half a mile through various streets to show me the exact location.
There are always lots of children playing in the streets where I live and usually I have fun with them for a few minutes as I pass by jumping in on a game of soccer or something of the like. Every time I walk down the streets you can hear the kids yelling "Danya!" in order to get my attention. Not sure why, but Yemenis seem to have a difficult time pronouncing "Dani." A few weeks ago I was walking with a friend in our neighborhood and a truck coming around the corner almost hit me. The neighborhood kids saw this unravel and almost as soon as the car put on its brakes there were about 20 Yemeni children hitting the sides of the vehicle and yelling at the driver for his mistake.
I frequently get fresh juice (orange and lemon, yum) from a vendor near my apartment and every time I go I like to get a water bottle filled so I have some for the morning. Each time, the people running the shop always give me an extra glass to drink while I'm there, free of charge.
When I was taking a taxi to work a while back, the driver started a conversation with me in Arabic. When we arrived at my destination he refused to let me pay because he was happy to have a foreigner speaking Arabic and learning about his culture.
I like to eat at a restaurant near by run by a man named Akhmed. Every time I go, he gives me at least two free dishes. I want to thank him for his generosity, but other than verbally thanking him there's really nothing that I can do. One day when he gave me a free dessert that was a new dish, I asked him questions about it (the name of it, etc.) to try to let him know that I enjoyed and appreciated it. Before he answered he had already brought two more trays of the same dish and was wrapping it up so I could take it to go.
These types of experiences tend to be the norm in Yemen and while often times they require the simplest of actions, they make a world of difference.
In addition to the Friedman article, I also covered a women's empowerment program know as the Springboard Program for Yemen Today magazine. The women in the program were very inspiring and welcoming. Feel free to check it out below:
Elevating Yemen One Woman At A Time
As I make my way down the third floor of the British Council in Sana’a, a door swings open and I am greeted by an eager and smiling young woman. Huda Saleem, the Women’s Development Program Manager at the British Council, radiates a warmth and sincerity that is difficult to find in the world of today, let alone in someone as young as she. “When women come here,” she tells me as I ask about her passion for this program, “They have a vague idea of what the program will do for them. When they finish, you see their faces and they say, ‘thank you, you’ve changed me for the better and you saved me.’ That makes me feel empowered. As a Yemeni woman, I have been through the same thing and I know that we need this.”
Huda leads me into a lively room, buzzing with the chatter of female voices as the thirty participants engage in discussion over their books; a scene rarely viewed in Yemen, even by a women herself. In the months I’ve resided in this country, gatherings of Yemeni women have tended to be excluded to the home over lunch, tea and the occasional qat session.
According to their website, the British Council strives to “build engagement and trust for the UK through the exchange of knowledge and ideas between people worldwide.” The Springboard Program is one initiative supported by the British Council that envelopes this vision and pushes it a step further. Developed specifically for women and designed to provide them the skills necessary to advance in the work force and in their personal lives, the program empowers women in the Middle East to recognize and meet their potential while encouraging them to challenge traditional roles and perceptions.
Working women seeking to take advantage of a job opportunity, progress in their field, heighten their confidence or improve their overall well being are encouraged to participate. The details of the program vary depending on the country and situation, but in Yemen, it consists of four workshops held on Thursdays from 8-5pm. Subjects covered include confidence building, personal evaluation, setting goals, assertiveness, maintaining a balanced lifestyle and a variety of other positive topics.
The Springboard Program, which originated in the United Kingdom, has since been expanding its influence, making its first appearance in Saudi Arabia in 2004 then migrating to other Middle Eastern countries, including Yemen in September 2007. In addition to celebrating its 21st anniversary in May of 2010, the Springboard program recently organized the first British Council Springboard Licensing Course for the Middle East in Beirut from July 12-20, 2009. This conference, composed of 30 women from organizations in Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Kuwait, UAE, Bahrain, Qatar and Oman, produced licensed trainers for the program, qualifying the attendees to instruct courses on self development customized to meet the needs of women in the Middle East. Completion of training ensures that the participants possess a strong knowledge of the Springboard Program and have fulfilled the challenging criteria established by the Springboard Consultancy.
Circulation of qualified trainers for the program also implies that the number of women and communities in the Middle East to benefit from this experience is on the rise. The Licensing Course is part of an expansion of regional projects in the Middle East to be conducted by the British Council with the greater aspiration of constructing a network of 20,000 Springboard alumni by 2012 and narrowing the gap of understanding between women in the Middle East and those in the UK.
In the conservative and traditional country of Yemen, it’s no secret that women are treated as second class citizens. Yemen was ranked last out of 130 countries in the 2008 World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap report and the estimated adult literacy rate for females by the UNDP in 2005 was only 34.7%. The testimony I received from the participants at the Springboard program overwhelmingly supported these findings.
Dr. Faiza Al-Maqtari, an optometrist, explains that “the problem is with basic human rights and luxuries; we don’t have them and there’s is no outlet with which to pursue them.” She proceeded to list examples of liberties Yemeni women are commonly denied, amongst them driving, going out at night, participating in activities without permission, and wearing clothing of their choice. “People don’t take me seriously in my profession and I’m not seen as an equal or as a qualified professional. Though I hold a high rank in society, I’m still subject to discrimination and disrespect.” Perhaps the most frustrating aspect of this society, as Dr. Faiza disclosed, “Is that those who are educated and who hold power that should be helping us, instead try to push us down. This problem is that of the world, but in some places and situations, you feel it more.”
The Springboard Program not only faces difficulties in empowering women, but in recruiting participation in a closed society. In addition to it interrupting work, school, and family responsibilities, a pharmacy student who I’ll refer to as SM, confesses that, “Many programs like this are seen as inspiring women to rebel against their family or society and teaches them to be selfish.”
SM does not agree with this conception. “There is a lot to learn from this program, you learn more about yourself and how to better communicate and express what you want.” One of the personal challenges SM faces is anger management, but she says, with the help of the program, “I’m regaining my confidence, learning to work on my anger issues, and seeing my own potential. It is helping me to set the steps I need to reach my goals and change the things about myself that I’d like to see improve.”
A veteran to such programs as the one Springboard offers, Bushra Nasr, a Project Analyst at the World Bank, feels that conquering the challenges of Yemeni society is a lifelong process. “Whenever I hear of these self development programs I just join because the atmosphere of this country tends to kill the enthusiasm you develop over time. I’ve managed to achieve everything I’ve wanted to. I started driving when I was a teen, studied abroad and even worked in Africa for a year. Now I want to be a trainer and send this spirit that I have to others and empower myself simultaneously.”
I was able to talk to these women at different intervals throughout the Springboard Program and observe their excitement grow and develop into determination. Participants expressed the change they felt within themselves from the first day. “This program is helping even within my home and this is only the second week. There have been positive changes for my family and for myself, culture, and friends,” praised Dr. Faiza.
The diversity of women in the program is worth noting. These participants come from various backgrounds, educations, governates, and age groups. Regardless of this, the women expressed a mutual respect for one another and were easily able to create a comfortable and open environment. Restricting classes to female participation is a main contributor to furthering development. This is an especially vital component in Arab cultures, where the male position is more likely to dominate conversation and inhibit honesty amongst female participants.
During the program’s last session, the women shared their reservations about the future. Hana’a Alherdi, Head of the Young Women’s Department at the Yemeni Youth Union confessed, “I knew before the program started that I must be strong, and even with reading the books and lectures it was difficult to erase all the weakness in myself and face the real society. Paper is one thing, but it is reality that is most challenging. Trying to maintain what I’m learning and honestly achieve my goals once the program is over, that is the challenge ahead.” This was a widespread fear amongst the women here, despite the fact that the program sets up a support group and networking options.
Hana’a Alherdi, like all the women I spoke to, found the structure of the program to be an effective one. In addition to the lectures and substance of the activities, Hana’a found that most importantly, “the material in the book was very simple to read and understand.” Also, “The ideas in the book can be turned into words and then into actions so we can understand what it means to be strong, empowered, and developed, then act on it accordingly.”
While all of the women agree that the Springboard Program is beneficial and is helping them meet their goals, they also had recommendations for improvement. Mainly, the women wanted the program to run for longer than the allotted four weeks. Furthermore, most agree that the cost, while subsidized, is still too expensive and that the program needs to be expanded to reach as many women as possible.
Currently, the program has trained 156 women in Yemen from a range of governates including Sana’a, Adan, Taiz, and Hodeidah. The two categories offered (one for teenagers and one for women 20 and above) ensure that no woman gets excluded on the basis of age. The challenges women must confront to lead lives equal to that of their male counterparts is frustrating, overwhelming and continuous, but Hana’a Alherdi has faith that it can be accomplished. “We have to start with building ourselves first then we can build the society; we must start from the bottom.” Hana’a believes “that women well educated will break the walls they face in their society one step at a time.” She says, “This is my principle and how I faced the issues with my family.”
I’ve reiterated the testimony of a few of the women I spoke with, but all of them had something to say and where eager to get the attention of someone willing to listen. Experiencing the strength and unity of these women in the midst of such a tremendous struggle is both moving and inspiring, and with the help of initiatives like the Springboard Program, it’s only a matter of time before the second half of the population begins to actively reshape Yemeni society.
Here's the blurb I wrote covering Thomas Friedman's visit to Media Women Forum for Yemen Today Magazine:
Yemen Is In the Making, Not In The Failing:
Thomas Friedman Visits Media Women Forum
“Yemen is in the making, not in the failing.” This was the message given to Thomas Friedman by ten leaders in Yemeni media at the conclusion of the discussion that took place Wednesday, February 3, 2010 at Media Women Forum in Sana’a. The meeting marked Friedman first visit to Yemen and addressed issues regarding Yemen’s political situation, development, United States contribution and dismantlement of Al-Qaeda.
Thomas Friedman, American New York Times columnist and three times Pulitzer Prize winner, began the conversation openly, recognizing the sudden interest in Yemen by the United States as the result of Al-Qaeda’s activity. While Friedman acknowledged the complexity of the various situations in Yemen, he feels “what Yemen needs are the simple things.” Good governance and a sturdy educational system were amongst those mentioned requiring an attentive and active government.
The question from Yemeni journalists was how to initiate this process of reform. To this, Friedman responded, “You always have to look for where the leverage is with your government...find the leverage on the president that he will embrace, don’t just use one force against the other.” He continued by adding, “At the end of the day, change has to come from within.”
Freidman cited the Camp David Peace Agreements between Egypt and Israel as an example of Middle Eastern countries taking initiative in the international political sphere and cemented his point with the analogy, “In the history of the world, no one’s ever washed a rented car. People from this part of the world have long rented their cars from their country’s kings and dictators, are you ready to own the car?”
Comparing Yemen’s situation to Taiwan (another country of 23 million), Friedman continued by calling to attention the untapped human capitol in Yemen, using Taiwan’s success as an example of what Yemen could achieve.
For the United States, Friedman sees Yemen as a chance to reevaluate past approaches to terrorism. His advice for the U.S. government is, “if for every one drone you send, you build 100 schools, you’ll be on the right track.” He admits that Yemenis know their country in ways that would take foreigners a lifetime to determine. Consequently, the U.S. will receive protection only when tribe says, “there will be no Al-Qaeda.” Friedman identifies this as the best form of security.
In response, freelance journalist Mohammed Al-Asaadi brought to attention that the majority of Yemeni citizens reside in rural areas. He explained that the government can’t reach the population and the population can’t make demands, resulting in gaps within the country that force it to operate on an ad hoc basis.
Before departing, Rahma Hugaira (President of Media Women Forum) gave thanks and appreciation to Friedman for his visit, which emphasized his support for free media and women’s rights in Yemen.
Media Women Forum is a non-governmental organization conducting initiatives for Yemeni media professionals (with an emphasis on women) to introduce objective journalism and enhance the media’s role in promoting issues surrounding human rights, democracy and development.
I was walking home from work on Wednesday and saw a young boy looking into a garbage can. By garbage can, I mean a large cardboard box that the neighbors were throwing their trash into. A suspicious scene, so I went to investigate and low and behold there were three newborn kittens flopping around amongst the trash. Apparently, even in Yemen where people don't really have cats as pets, kittens still get thrown in the garbage. The last thing I need right now is to be waking up every two hours and dragging a litter of kittens around Yemen, but I also can't just leave three kittens to die, dirty and hungry in garbage dump. I grabbed them up, wrapped them in my shall, and took them home.
They are now clean and fat, though to be honest I doubt they'll live long. Its difficult enough to raise bottle babies in general, but in Yemen there is no such thing as kitten formula and while baby formula will suffice in the short term, it lacks a lot of the nutrients specific to feline needs. In addition, there are no kitten size bottles, so feeding through a syringe is tricky. They hate the plastic and its easier for them to asphyxiate, but they're adapting.
I've been fostering kittens for Humane Societies and various veterinary hospitals (as I'm a veterinary technician) since I was a kid and was enjoying it up to when I left for the Middle East. Most of my buddies back home laughed when I told them this and responded by saying they were glad to know that some things never change.
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that they make it through the next couple weeks.
I have always admired those fluent in many languages and traveling abroad has inspired me to become fluent not only in Arabic, but in Russian, Chinese, and Italian as well. I'd also like to study Hebrew so I can catch some slack from my Israeli buddies whenever they send out group messages or updates and I have to ask for a special translation because, as they know, I can't read Hebrew.
I've taken French for a good seven years and while I'm a little rusty, I decided to seize the opportunity to brush up on the language when I was offered a tutoring position. I'm enjoying the experience though teaching French to Yemeni's in combination of broken Arabic, English and French has proven to be somewhat challenging. In addition, another issue seems to have resurfaced in reminding my brain of its French abilities. When I first started learning Arabic, whenever my professor would ask me a question, my first response (mentally) was always in French. Thankfully I never answered in French, but I had to then rethink the question a second time in Arabic, often making for a somewhat awkward response time. It took me a year or so to move past this and while the same pattern hasn't completely adopted its old form, I have started to unintentionally bring French words into my thinking when speaking in Arabic.
My brain continues to slack on its organizational abilities, but in the mean time I hope I can train it to separate one language from another.
Here's a piece Thomas Freidman wrote about his visit to Yemen. I find it amusing how surprised he was to find young foreigners here. When he met me at Media Women Forum the first thing he said was, "how did you get here?" After MWF Freidman went to visit the Yemen Observer (the company I write magazine articles for, aka Yemen Today). My foriegn friends that work there said he had a similar reaction to them, which he expresses in his piece. Check it out at:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/07/opinion/07friedman.html
Friedman Supports Media Women Forum with a Press Conference
Sana’a, Yemen, February 3, 2010 /Media Women Forum - Today, Media Women Forum held a round table discussion in honor of a visit from Thomas Friedman, American NY Times columnist and Pulitzer Prize winner. Friedman exchanged opinions with ten leaders of the Yemeni media addressing the current situation as well as US contribution and tactics in the fight against Al-Qaeda.
Friedman spoke honestly with conference members, acknowledging that America’s interest in Yemen is as the result of activity with Al-Qaeda and began a discussion concentrating on the main issues in Yemen (education, development, security, etc.) and the methods that need to be pursued in order to remedy such obstacles.
Also raised was the question of the United States administration and how it will interact with Yemen as a result of current developments. Friedman cemented the point that Yemen must take responsibility for its country and should focus on development from within. Until this is achieved, support from the United States will be ineffective. Before concluding, Yemeni journalists expressed enthusiasm for Friedman’s visit and left a message with Friedman for the US, that Yemen is in the making, not in the failing, and that we will find a way to unite and better our country for the benefit of its people.
After thanking Media Women Forum and its guests profusely, Friedman told the Forum, “I have two daughters and one day, I hope that I can bring them here.” This was perhaps the ultimate form of flattery and support for both Media Women Forum and the cause for which they are fighting. Should Thomas Friedman visit Yemen again, it would be their pleasure to welcome him back to their organization.
This conference took place in the capitol of Sana’a at 11:30am at the Media Women Forum’s personal conference room, Amat Al-Aleem Alsusua, and included various members of the Women Media Forum and respected local journalists and media institutions. Such members included:
Rahma Hugaira (President of MWF)
Fares Sanabani (Editor-in-Chief of Yemen Today)
Fares Alsaqqaf (Chairperson of General Board of Books)
Danielle Giacchetti (Public Relations and Program Officer at MWF)
Murad Hashem (Director of Aljazira Office in Yemen)
Hamood Monasar (Director of Al Arabia Office in Yemen)
Khaled Alhamadi (Correspondent the Agency of Arabic Quds)
Naif Hassan (Editor-in-Chief of Alshare'a Newspaper)
Mohamed Alassadi (Journalist)
Bushra Alamira (Journalist)
Fiadh ALnoa'man (Journalist)
Media Women Forum is a non-governmental organization conducting initiatives for Yemeni media professionals to introduce objective journalism and enhance the media’s role in promoting issues surrounding human rights, democracy and development.
Since beginning my position at Media Women Forum I've met ambassadors, ministers, representatives from embassies, the UN, UNICEF and other organizations of the like, but today we had a particularly politically significant guest attend a meeting at the Forum, none other than Thomas Friedman. Friedman, amongst other things, is an American New York Times columnist and a three times Pulitzer Prize winner. I own some of his work, including the book, "From Beirut to Jerusalem." I don't always agree with Freidman's opinions nor do I always support his intentions. However, he has extensive experience in and with the Middle East (though this was his first visit to Yemen) and is very influential in the international political scene, so I was excited to learn I would be attending a round table discussion which he would be leading.
It was one of those times where I felt like I was actually progressing in this field and was pleased that I was able to present questions of my own to Friedman during the meeting while be taken seriously in the process. I will most likely be writing about the event for Yemen Today magazine and was asked to write a press release for the event immediately following it's conclusion. That press release is posted on the following entry soon to be followed (inshallah) by my article.
Below is some information on Thomas Friedman for those who aren't familiar with him or his work:
Thomas Lauren Friedman is an American New York Times columnist and a three time Pulitzer Prize winning author (twice for International Reporting in 1983 and 1988 and once for Commentary in 2002). He has written extensively on foreign affairs including global trade, the Middle East and environmental issues has been a member of the Pulitzer Prize Board from 2004 until the present.
His works include:
From Beirut to Jerusalem (1989)
The Lexus and the Olive Tree: Understanding Globalization (1999)
Longitudes and Attitudes: Exploring the World After September 11 (2002; reprinted 2003 as Longitudes and Attitudes: The World in the Age of Terrorism)
The World Is Flat: A Brief History of The Twenty-first Century (2005)
Hot, Flat, and Crowded: Why We Need a Green Revolution And How It Can Renew America (2008)
Friedman was born in St. Louis Park, Minnesota, a suburb of Minneapolis in July of 1953. In 1975, Friedman received a bachelor of arts in Mediterranean studies from Brandeis University and then attended St Antony's College at the University of Oxford on a Marshall scholarship, earning an Masters of Philosophy in Middle Eastern studies.
Friedman joined the London bureau of United Press International after completing his masters degree. He was dispatched a year later to Beirut, where he stayed until 1981. He was then hired by The New York Times as a reporter, and was re-dispatched to Beirut at the start of the 1982 Israeli invasion of Lebanon. Friedman's coverage of the war, particularly the Sabra and Shatila massacre, won him the Pulitzer Prize for International Reporting. With David K. Shipler, he also won the 1982 George Polk Award for Foreign Reporting.
He was assigned to Jerusalem from 1984 to 1988, and received a second Pulitzer Prize for his coverage of the First Palestinian Intifada. Afterwords he wrote a book, From Beirut to Jerusalem, describing his experiences in the Middle East.
Friedman covered Secretary of State James Baker during the administration of United States President George H. W. Bush. Following the election of Bill Clinton in 1992, he became the White House correspondent for the Times. In 1994, he began to write more about foreign policy and economics, and moved to the op-ed page of The New York Times the following year as a foreign affairs columnist. In 2002, Friedman won the Pulitzer Prize for Commentary "for his clarity of vision, based on extensive reporting, in commenting on the worldwide impact of the terrorist threat."
In February 2002, Friedman met Saudi Crown Prince Abdullah and personally encouraged him to make his comprehensive attempt to end the Arab-Israeli conflict by normalizing Arab relations with Israel in exchange for the return of refugees alongside an end to the Israel territorial occupations. Abdullah proposed the Arab Peace Initiative at the Beirut Summit that March, which Friedman has strongly supported since. Friedman is the recipient of the 2004 Overseas Press Club Award for lifetime achievement, and has been named to the Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II.
Information taken from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Friedman
