I have always admired those fluent in many languages and traveling abroad has inspired me to become fluent not only in Arabic, but in Russian, Chinese, and Italian as well. I'd also like to study Hebrew so I can catch some slack from my Israeli buddies whenever they send out group messages or updates and I have to ask for a special translation because, as they know, I can't read Hebrew.
I've taken French for a good seven years and while I'm a little rusty, I decided to seize the opportunity to brush up on the language when I was offered a tutoring position. I'm enjoying the experience though teaching French to Yemeni's in combination of broken Arabic, English and French has proven to be somewhat challenging. In addition, another issue seems to have resurfaced in reminding my brain of its French abilities. When I first started learning Arabic, whenever my professor would ask me a question, my first response (mentally) was always in French. Thankfully I never answered in French, but I had to then rethink the question a second time in Arabic, often making for a somewhat awkward response time. It took me a year or so to move past this and while the same pattern hasn't completely adopted its old form, I have started to unintentionally bring French words into my thinking when speaking in Arabic.
My brain continues to slack on its organizational abilities, but in the mean time I hope I can train it to separate one language from another.
Here's a piece Thomas Freidman wrote about his visit to Yemen. I find it amusing how surprised he was to find young foreigners here. When he met me at Media Women Forum the first thing he said was, "how did you get here?" After MWF Freidman went to visit the Yemen Observer (the company I write magazine articles for, aka Yemen Today). My foriegn friends that work there said he had a similar reaction to them, which he expresses in his piece. Check it out at:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/07/opinion/07friedman.html
Friedman Supports Media Women Forum with a Press Conference
Sana’a, Yemen, February 3, 2010 /Media Women Forum - Today, Media Women Forum held a round table discussion in honor of a visit from Thomas Friedman, American NY Times columnist and Pulitzer Prize winner. Friedman exchanged opinions with ten leaders of the Yemeni media addressing the current situation as well as US contribution and tactics in the fight against Al-Qaeda.
Friedman spoke honestly with conference members, acknowledging that America’s interest in Yemen is as the result of activity with Al-Qaeda and began a discussion concentrating on the main issues in Yemen (education, development, security, etc.) and the methods that need to be pursued in order to remedy such obstacles.
Also raised was the question of the United States administration and how it will interact with Yemen as a result of current developments. Friedman cemented the point that Yemen must take responsibility for its country and should focus on development from within. Until this is achieved, support from the United States will be ineffective. Before concluding, Yemeni journalists expressed enthusiasm for Friedman’s visit and left a message with Friedman for the US, that Yemen is in the making, not in the failing, and that we will find a way to unite and better our country for the benefit of its people.
After thanking Media Women Forum and its guests profusely, Friedman told the Forum, “I have two daughters and one day, I hope that I can bring them here.” This was perhaps the ultimate form of flattery and support for both Media Women Forum and the cause for which they are fighting. Should Thomas Friedman visit Yemen again, it would be their pleasure to welcome him back to their organization.
This conference took place in the capitol of Sana’a at 11:30am at the Media Women Forum’s personal conference room, Amat Al-Aleem Alsusua, and included various members of the Women Media Forum and respected local journalists and media institutions. Such members included:
Rahma Hugaira (President of MWF)
Fares Sanabani (Editor-in-Chief of Yemen Today)
Fares Alsaqqaf (Chairperson of General Board of Books)
Danielle Giacchetti (Public Relations and Program Officer at MWF)
Murad Hashem (Director of Aljazira Office in Yemen)
Hamood Monasar (Director of Al Arabia Office in Yemen)
Khaled Alhamadi (Correspondent the Agency of Arabic Quds)
Naif Hassan (Editor-in-Chief of Alshare'a Newspaper)
Mohamed Alassadi (Journalist)
Bushra Alamira (Journalist)
Fiadh ALnoa'man (Journalist)
Media Women Forum is a non-governmental organization conducting initiatives for Yemeni media professionals to introduce objective journalism and enhance the media’s role in promoting issues surrounding human rights, democracy and development.
Since beginning my position at Media Women Forum I've met ambassadors, ministers, representatives from embassies, the UN, UNICEF and other organizations of the like, but today we had a particularly politically significant guest attend a meeting at the Forum, none other than Thomas Friedman. Friedman, amongst other things, is an American New York Times columnist and a three times Pulitzer Prize winner. I own some of his work, including the book, "From Beirut to Jerusalem." I don't always agree with Freidman's opinions nor do I always support his intentions. However, he has extensive experience in and with the Middle East (though this was his first visit to Yemen) and is very influential in the international political scene, so I was excited to learn I would be attending a round table discussion which he would be leading.
It was one of those times where I felt like I was actually progressing in this field and was pleased that I was able to present questions of my own to Friedman during the meeting while be taken seriously in the process. I will most likely be writing about the event for Yemen Today magazine and was asked to write a press release for the event immediately following it's conclusion. That press release is posted on the following entry soon to be followed (inshallah) by my article.
Below is some information on Thomas Friedman for those who aren't familiar with him or his work:
Thomas Lauren Friedman is an American New York Times columnist and a three time Pulitzer Prize winning author (twice for International Reporting in 1983 and 1988 and once for Commentary in 2002). He has written extensively on foreign affairs including global trade, the Middle East and environmental issues has been a member of the Pulitzer Prize Board from 2004 until the present.
His works include:
From Beirut to Jerusalem (1989)
The Lexus and the Olive Tree: Understanding Globalization (1999)
Longitudes and Attitudes: Exploring the World After September 11 (2002; reprinted 2003 as Longitudes and Attitudes: The World in the Age of Terrorism)
The World Is Flat: A Brief History of The Twenty-first Century (2005)
Hot, Flat, and Crowded: Why We Need a Green Revolution And How It Can Renew America (2008)
Friedman was born in St. Louis Park, Minnesota, a suburb of Minneapolis in July of 1953. In 1975, Friedman received a bachelor of arts in Mediterranean studies from Brandeis University and then attended St Antony's College at the University of Oxford on a Marshall scholarship, earning an Masters of Philosophy in Middle Eastern studies.
Friedman joined the London bureau of United Press International after completing his masters degree. He was dispatched a year later to Beirut, where he stayed until 1981. He was then hired by The New York Times as a reporter, and was re-dispatched to Beirut at the start of the 1982 Israeli invasion of Lebanon. Friedman's coverage of the war, particularly the Sabra and Shatila massacre, won him the Pulitzer Prize for International Reporting. With David K. Shipler, he also won the 1982 George Polk Award for Foreign Reporting.
He was assigned to Jerusalem from 1984 to 1988, and received a second Pulitzer Prize for his coverage of the First Palestinian Intifada. Afterwords he wrote a book, From Beirut to Jerusalem, describing his experiences in the Middle East.
Friedman covered Secretary of State James Baker during the administration of United States President George H. W. Bush. Following the election of Bill Clinton in 1992, he became the White House correspondent for the Times. In 1994, he began to write more about foreign policy and economics, and moved to the op-ed page of The New York Times the following year as a foreign affairs columnist. In 2002, Friedman won the Pulitzer Prize for Commentary "for his clarity of vision, based on extensive reporting, in commenting on the worldwide impact of the terrorist threat."
In February 2002, Friedman met Saudi Crown Prince Abdullah and personally encouraged him to make his comprehensive attempt to end the Arab-Israeli conflict by normalizing Arab relations with Israel in exchange for the return of refugees alongside an end to the Israel territorial occupations. Abdullah proposed the Arab Peace Initiative at the Beirut Summit that March, which Friedman has strongly supported since. Friedman is the recipient of the 2004 Overseas Press Club Award for lifetime achievement, and has been named to the Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II.
Information taken from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Friedman
Being a woman in the Middle East is no cup of tea. I admire women here for many reasons. If you've ever seen a Middle Eastern toilet, you too would have instant admiration. Women in Yemen are strong, enduring and sacrifice most of themselves for the sake of their families. They are also seen as second class citizens and treated as such.
Shortly after arriving in Yemen, where the grand majority of native women are veiled, I was disturbed to realize that when women would pass me in the streets, I would only make eye contact and smile at the few without the veil. It was completely unintentional and even though many veiled women still reveal their eyes, I simply didn't see them. Since then, I've made an effort to acknowledge all women, veil or no veil, and to remember that there is a person under all the cover. Still, I have to wonder how it must feel and what the long term effects may be for women, at least while in public, to have a total lack of identity.
To say women aren't seen here isn't completely true. Those fully covered and veiled still get cat calls from men, however, there's no comparison between the harassment native women contend with to that of western women when it comes to male attention in the streets.
The attention from men that I've received in any Arab country has always been frequent and made me uncomfortable and agitated, but the magnitude of that attention has been most significant in Yemen. However, only recently has this phenomenon begun to affect my mood and the way I perceive men here.
Let me expand to give you a better understanding of what I experience every day when I walk outside.
First, you have the stares which is aidi (normal), these come from everyone, men, women and children and aren't so much a big deal. Especially with women and children, I know the looks come from a more genuine curiosity and interest, at least most of the time, and while the stares from men may also originate from the same place, 90% of the time accompanied with it is the hope of some kind of sexual exploit. It would be wrong to say that all the men here are like that as I have met some wonderful men who have gone out of their way for me without expecting anything in return and I have acquired some very trustworthy male Yemeni friends. However, when 90% of the male community that I encounter when walking outside acts in the opposite manner, its difficult not to become resentful.
With the looks come vocalizations, "I love you," "hello hello hello," "how are you?" Understand that no one here speaks English so men will say whatever they know multiple times while trying to approach you in hopes of getting your attention so that you will interact with them. I've had cars intentionally cut me off, motorbikes circle me, traffic will literally stop when I pass by and if I'm riding in a taxi, men will stop their cars next to me and try to make conversation or sing through the window. I'm often propositioned in the streets, public transportation and anywhere else I might go. For those who don't know, western women are not only seen as exotic, but easy. The worst is when I'm in a busy, crowded, market and men try to touch what they can by making it seem like an accident. Unfortunately, this works because as soon as you realize what happened the person has vanished.
These experiences are disrespectful and insulting and these days, both myself and my friend Kim tend to not go for long excursions unless we're together. Male gestures tend to be fewer when in bigger groups and its nice to have someone else there to contend with these things for emotional support, if you will. Its interesting, but most of the girls here that I consider friends have been in Yemen for a significant amount of time and have lived in other Middle Eastern countries, but the "western woman factor" as I'll call it, seems only now to really be getting to us, and all simultaneously despite the various durations of time we've spent abroad.
My friend Sam, who works in marketing here, gets the unique experience of having the male businessmen she contacts for her job call her personal phone at all hours of the night. On a less unique note, we've all gotten calls from wrong numbers by men who realized they called a foreign women and proceeded to call continuously thereafter.
Some people might tell me that if its such a big deal I should start wearing a nicab. To that I would respond that men can tell when a foreign woman wears a nicab. I myself can't figure it out completely, other than perhaps the subtle differences in body language, tread and posture between Yemeni and Western women aren't really all that subtle. Also, I am not Yemeni nor am I Muslim. I can respect the culture here by wearing conservative and loose clothing while not feeling forced to make a decision that isn't my own. In a way, I feel doing otherwise actually projects disrespect, although there are times (due to the safety factor) wear I will dress in this manner.
I've tried to understand the cultural mindset around this behavior, I've analyzed and sympathized, and now I just find myself fighting resentment and constant skepticism of the men here. I try to focus on the positive male relationships I've made and realize that this phenomenon only seems to happen in the streets, not in all settings, but some days, I think its just better to stay indoors.
Analysis of the Report:
Sustainable Development is Possible in Yemen
Yemen is country rich in beauty and culture, but one whose problems easily overwhelm its onlooker. The article, “Sustainable Development in Yemen is Possible,” written by Danya Greenfield and published January 14, 2010 by the Center for American Progress (a progressive DC based think tank), takes these surmounting issues and funnels them into perspective.
Greenfield assesses Yemen’s current situation in a brief and organized fashion that gets straight to the point and focuses on how the United States should interact with Yemen to ensure greater stability and progress. It is suggested that three sections be emphasized in terms of assistance and support, including local governance, anti-corruption efforts, and economic reform.
Media Women Forum (the nongovernmental organization I am working for) is commended by Greenfield as one organization that has taken initiative in the area of anti-corruption. If you would like to read the actual article for more details, please refer to the following link:
From the beginning of my Middle East journey I have had to play to the audience I was entertaining, so to speak. A white lie here, a blatant lie there, using body language and voice (or lack there of) to convince someone of a certain belief, opinion, or attitude that I may or may not carry in the name of safety and exploration.
In Palestine, I spoke Arabic and had to put out a focused effort not to speak Hebrew. In Israel, I spoke Hebrew and had to put out a focused effort not to speak Arabic. When asked about my opinions towards my politics, it took imagination, creativity and restraint (in both Israel, Palestine and in any other Arab countries for that matter) to provide people with answers that closely resembled the one's I hold without straying too far from the ones I believed the person I was conversing with held. I clearly do not support the current occupation in Israel, but I have sensitivities for both the Israelis and the Palestinians and if I don't fully support one "side" then I am in danger of being seen as against it. At times I lied completely about what I was doing abroad.
In countries such as Syria and Yemen, when asked where I learned Arabic, I say Jordan or Egypt as I may be seen as a terrorist or simply be kicked out if I say Palestine. I have two passports, one that shows no sign of Israel/Palestine so I may enter countries such as these. In Syria, when talking about Israel to those I trusted, I referred to it as "Disneyland," I referred to the Syrian government as "the Company," and I referred to the Syrian president as "the CEO," all of which are common lingo for anyone talking about these subjects in Syria.
When I take a taxi or bus in the Middle East, I tell the drivers I have a boyfriend or I'm married (as they usually ask) and often pretend not to understand what it is they're asking or telling me thereafter. In airports or other security settings, I embody the role of the eager naive tourist which usually gets me to where I need to go. When it doesn't, I become assertive, persistent and sometimes aggressive which succeeds when the latter fails to.
Since the recent expansion of political unrest and US involvement in Yemen, I tell people I am from France. For the record, when someone asks you if you're from Russia in the Middle East, say no, as this is usually synonymous with "are you a prostitute?" When traveling through checkpoints, I wear a veil to give the illusion that I am Yemeni so as not to be stopped by security.
There are other such tactics I will leave out for the sake of space and keeping your attention, but its important to be smart when you're traveling, especially in this region and these mechanisms have helped me to do so. Simultaneously, they are draining me. I have been working and pushing myself to the edge ever since I arrived and for the first time since landing, I'm starting to feel it. In many ways, being here is like adopting another identity, one which I can never be comfortable with and one that takes a lot of exertion to uphold not only for my own safety and ease, but out of respect for the culture as well.
I only have a few more months here and I am trying my best to get the most out it and enjoy every experience as I am presented with opportunities to see this culture in ways that others will never be privy to. I only hope that I can keep going at the same speed until then.
