Unexpected Compliment

I’ve written before about how difficult it is to exercise in Yemen, especially for women. A gym membership typically costs around $50 a month which is very expensive for both Yemenis and students, and if they allow women, they often may only attend outside of restricted hours of the day due to the separation of men and women. Many of the students have expressed a desire to stay fit while they are here, especially since most will be here for more than six months.
With this in mind, I started teaching ab (core strength) and kickboxing classes and simultaneously consulted the director of the college to inquire about the possibility of establishing a gym. I was told that there were too many other projects going on right now, but that hopefully in the future this could be materialized. I pushed a little harder and asked if there was any way we could acquire a few pieces of equipment for the time being. He responded saying he would possibility be willing to make a personal donation depending on how much we were able to get from the students and based on how much the equipment would cost in total.
The next step was emailing the students, collecting donations, visiting multiple sports shops and getting estimates on equipment while practicing my bartering skills. In the end, we ended up getting just under $700 in student donations with the total for the equipment itself at $1600. That included a bike, treadmill, women’s dumbbells, men’s dumbbells, four mats, and a weight bench with bench press and 68 kilos of weight. The director was so impressed by the efforts made that he supplied the rest of the donations and a room to put the equipment in.
I was telling some of the students about the details of the gym and one of the German students, Eva, made a comment to me that took me aback a bit. Eva, in general, is very quiet, intelligent, and collected; the kind of person who usually doesn’t say anything unless it’s worthwhile and simultaneously possess a very clever and discrete sense of humor. She told me with a slight grin, after seeing all this come to fruition,  “that’s so American. You decide you want to accomplish something so you go out and you do it.”
That statement, coming not only from a foreigner, but an individual such as Eva, really made my day. One of the better compliments I’ve gotten in a long time. Every country has traits that are endearing and those that are worth changing, but with the current political situation created by the former G.W. Bush administration still fervently impacting the lives and relationships of those abroad, as much as I value the U.S. and what it represents, I often feel embarrassed of what has recently transpired as a result of my country's ignorance. I also find it a challenge to break the stereotype that other countries (Middle Eastern, Western, or elsewhere) may hold in light of those recent activities. The fact that some people still view America in the way that Eva expressed, as a country with initiative and inspiration, gives me a little peace of mind.

Foreign Discussion Forums

In an effort to encourage understanding and dialogue between Yemenis and foreigners, I'm hosting a program where Yemeni students from the Yemen American Language Institute (YALI) and foreign students from the Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies (YCMES) join together in discussion. I serve mostly to moderate the group and introduce the subject matter, but I'm trying to maintain an atmosphere of free dialogue and open communication. This can be a challenge at times as students from all the cultures represented want to hear what the other has to say, but sometimes they struggle with their ability to listen and understand the perspective of the other. These students are my age and usually older, so its interesting hearing what they have to say and how they present it considering that many of them possess a very solidified world view.

The first topic was on marriage in Yemen and the Western World. I mostly took notes on the things that were brought up about Yemeni culture. A quick summary of how the Yemeni students perceive the Western World when it comes to the pursuit of relationships can be narrowed down to the word "promiscuous," which is really an understatement. They seem to think that everyone from the West engages in sexual acts at any time without attributing any importance or emotion to it. Just as we have stereotypes of how extreme their culture is, so too do they hold the same about us. Below are some quick notes I took from the discussion in case anyone is interested.

One thing I will mention about the discussion was how many of the Yemeni's more extreme ideas contradicted each other, but when the foreign students tried to point out the flaws in their logic, the Yemeni students simply couldn't register what they were trying to express to them. When you build your entire world view around a certain logic, when that logic is questioned, people tend to get defensive and confused because although they may only be challenged on one aspect of their beliefs, each idea, however small, rests on top of another and when one is disputed, the entire infrastructure threatens to crumble.

Nonetheless, it's healthy to try to understand and question each other's perspectives to break down barriers and not worry about being politically correct. Otherwise, we'll continue to put up a facade of understanding without really acknowledging where the other culture is coming from and, in many ways, continue to fear what we don't comprehend. 

Yemeni Marriage Discussion between YCMES and YALI students

• One problem with marriage in Yemen is the young age of eligibility especially for girls, according to the Yemeni students (the current age is 16, though you can get engaged at any age).
• There are 2 main criteria for a suitable husband/wife including morals and religion.
• Beauty, money and reputation are also factors taken into account depending on the family in question and the morals they support.

• The pursuit of sexual and romantic relationships is forbidden, so it is illegal to be involved in this capacity.
• Whether or not tests are given to the future spouse depends on the family and their personal tactics.
• Some common examples consist of the mother of the man visiting the women in question during lunch to observe her cooking skills or the mother might engage the bride in a discussion involving morals to see if hers are compatible with her own.
• While polygamy is allowed it is rarely practiced, quite possibly due to the financial constraints it would pose. If a man marries a second wife, it states in the Qur’an that he must not do so unless he is able to treat both wives exactly the same. It was argued by some of the foreigners that this is impossible to do as every relationship is different - it is unrealistic to think the same relationship can be maintained with two different people.
• Some men marry a second wife without telling the first wife and this the Yemeni students found this to be unacceptable.
• The Yemeni students believe that love must be separated from a sexual relationship.
• I meant to ask about the difference between friendship and a romantic relationship, but was unable to find the time to do so.

• The Yemeni students believe that if you are a homosexual, you should be killed whether or not you act on your feelings because according to their beliefs, in Islam, homosexuality is illegal.
• They also seem to link pedophilia with homosexuality, expressing the belief that the two aren’t mutually exclusive.
• Perhaps there could be another discussion in the future on the topic of homosexuality?
• Premarital sex is very rare in Yemen due to the traditions and cultural restrictions that mediate behavior.
• Women cannot wear tight clothing.
• Individuals are not allowed to maintain close relationships with the opposite sex.
• Etc.
• The Yemeni students do not believe that adultery occurs in Yemen or if it does, it operates on a very rare basis. I have no evidence to state to the contrary and I didn't mention this in discussion, but what I hear from other Yemenis runs very contrary to this.
• They attribute this to the success surrounding the marriage process as well as the ability to seek a divorce if needed
• In the divorce process there are a series of steps that must be followed that may or may not culminate in actually getting a divorce (depending on what happens at each phase).
• There are lawyers, trials, etc. in what what appears to be a developed process.
• For the actual wedding celebration, the length varies depending on region and family.
• Women and men hold separate celebrations.
• Sometimes, the women’s celebration can last for 7 days and each day she must wear a different dress.
• For men, the celebration tends to be a bit shorter, around 2 days.
• The clothing worn depends on the family background and status.

Henna

Henna is the name of a body art for women performed in Middle Eastern cultures. A dye taken from the henna or hina plant is mashed into a dye used to decorate women's bodies as part of social celebrations and holidays. The dye comes in the form of a non-permanent tattoo, disappearing after two weeks or so depending on how its cared for. The existence of this art has been traced back to the late Bronze Age in the eastern Mediterranean. Events such as the birth of a child, birthday celebrations, weddings, and any other joyous moments are all occasions where henna is practiced.
Because this art has such a strong place in Middle Eastern and Yemeni society, I enlisted a Yemeni woman who works as a henna artist to come to the college and perform henna for the girls here. She did beautiful work and you can see my hands after henna was performed in the image below. Henna is an art that is restricted only to women so no men are allowed anywhere near the event. Since women must reveal their skin during the process it is especially necessary that men are excluded.
When the henna artist arrived there were tea and cookies as is traditional in Yemeni society for such an event and Arabic music playing in the background. We had the option of getting hands, feet or both done. The henna itself was actually a very quick process despite the intricacy of the designs, and once the henna was applied, all that was left to do was sit back, practice Arabic, and wait for the henna to dry (about 15 minutes). After the paste solidified, I took a sponge in oil and patted down everyone’s henna pattern. Next, the henna was left to sit a little while longer before our artist used her hands and a rag to wipe off the paste she’d used to create each unique pattern, revealing the tattoo you see above.

Busy Busy Busy

Sorry for being MIA for so long. Starting this new job has proven much more time consuming than originally assumed. In addition to trying to tie up loose ends with the Amsterdam and Yemeni student exchange program and planning and supervising new events and trips for the foreign students here, I’ve also been working on writing two articles for the Yemen Times, one on a tourist destination and another on women’s healthcare in Yemen (or lack there of). YCMES is also considering hiring me part time as a nurse of sorts for their English language school (YALI). In the States I'm a Registered Nursing Assistant which apparently is comparable to a Registered Nurse trained in Yemen. Also, as there are very few options for women who want to work out in Yemen, I’ve been collecting estimates on gym equipment at the few sports stores in the area, gathering donations from the students, and hoping to have a small gym set up by November. Additionally, I’ve been teaching abdomen and kickboxing classes five mornings a week at 6:30am as another option for the students here. It’s been pretty successful, but adds to my work load as I have to make up new routines and music compilations. And let’s not forget that I’m also trying to master Arabic, yet another time consuming endeavor and a process that I wish I could hurry along. I will probably still apply to work or volunteer at a women’s rights NGO, but may wait until next month once things calm down a bit. Inshallah! 

Photos

So I finally posted some photos of Sana'a, Yemen below. Some also take place in the Old City and in the building where I'm living, the name of which is the Markez which translates to the "center" in English. Enjoy!

Pickup Game

Two of the men that study/work here at YCMES and myself invested in a soccer ball. We didn’t even get through the front gate to the college before it was spotted by one of the Yemeni guards and within minutes we had a group of over ten Yemeni men, myself and my two gringo compadres. Soccer is a popular past time in the Middle East, probably because it can be played anywhere with no equipment with the exception of a ball. The Yemeni men had quick footwork that kept us on our feet, but I’m proud to say I can still hold my own on the soccer field (or in this case, back alley). Some of the Yemenis even got over the fact that I’m a woman and pushed back when I went in for the kill. Baby steps people, baby steps.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do. I applied the same mentality to our ethnically mixed soccer game, taking off my shoes to play barefoot like the Yemenis. The other motivation was that ball control is increased with bare feet as oppose to sandals or tennis shoes. Being as competitive as I am combined with the fact that I was the only female there and probably the only one they would ever see play soccer in real life, the pressure was on. My feet paid the price for my performance, emerging from the game bloody and slightly bruised, but well worth it. A few more rounds and I assume my feet will be broken in sufficiently for the long haul.
It was nostalgic to feel a soccer ball at my feet again. For those unaware, soccer and I go way back. Competitive soccer was an integral part of my life and the atmosphere under which I revisited it was reminiscent of a scene out of a movie. There we all were, with the sun setting over the ancient city of Sana'a, feeling against our soles the bare earth, glass, and rubble that line the streets and back allies of this foreign city as children curiously peered in from the edge of the alleyway. Epic.

General Info On Yemen

Here is some general information on Yemen to give a better understanding of a place many know little about. If you want to delve into greater depth, check out Wikipedia or the YCMES web site:
Yemen is an ancient land with a history dating back over 3,000 years and is mentioned in both the Bible (as the land of the Queen of Sheba) as well as the Qur’an. Among the ancient civilizations that ruled in Yemen were the Sabaeans and the Himyarites. After the spread of Islam, the most important rulers in Yemen were the Zaydis and the Ottomans. The modern period of Yemeni history was characterized by political instability and disunity. The North was ruled by an Imamate until 1962, while the South was part of the British Empire until 1967. Throughout the 1970s and the 1980s Yemen remained split, but was unified as the Republic of Yemen in May 1990. Though Yemen was officially one country after 1990, the North and South engaged in a civil war until 1994, when peace was finally declared. Yemen seemingly  became more stable after a border agreement was signed with Saudi Arabia in 2000 and more recently, with U.S. incentives, the Yemeni government pledged to rid its borders of Islamic extremism and terrorism. I use the word "seemingly" only because there is much conflict that still exists in Yemen, often originating from old tensions that have supposedly been mended.
The Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies is located in the capital city of Sana’a, which dates back to the 6th Century BC. It has been ruled by numerous dynasties, including the Sabaeans, Himyarites, Ethiopians, and Persians, and became a Muslim city during the lifespan of the Prophet Muhammad. Various Muslim rulers oversaw the city from the time of the Ottoman Turks to the Zaydi Imamate, which ended with the 1962 revolution. Sana’a’s history of repeated inhabitations places it as a contender for the oldest and continuously inhabited city of the world at 2500 consecutive years.
Sana’a became the capital of North Yemen in 1962 with a population of less than 250,000. The newly founded capital quickly expanded without proper urban planning, accounting for some of the confusion and frustration experienced when navigating the city today. Currently the city’s population is rapidly expanding to over two million inhabitants, leading to water depletion and energy shortages.
Yemen’s topography is the most varied of any country on the Arabian Peninsula. Northern Yemen is known as the “Roof of Arabia” for its spectacular mountains. The capital of Sana’a sits at the center of the Sana’a basin at an altitude of 2250 meters/7,400 feet, with the rainy seasons extending from April to June and August to September. To the west toward the coast of the Red Sea, the mountains give way to the Tihama, a long strip of coastal plane which is hot and humid, especially during the summer months. The Hadhramout region extends to the south and east, bordering the southern portion of al-Rub al-Khali (the Empty Quarter). Yemen also controls numerous islands in the Red and Arabian Seas, including Socotra which boasts unique endemic species and some of Arabia’s greatest plant and animal diversity native nowhere else on earth; similar only to the Galapagos. Yemen is bordered by Saudi Arabia to the north, Oman to the east, the Arabian Sea to the south, and the Red Sea to the west.
The population of Yemen in 2007 is estimated at 22 million people, the majority under the age of 25. Growth rates are among the highest in the world at about 3.5%, with Yemeni women having, on average, 6.5 children each. The racial makeup of the population is predominantly Arab, with some immigration from Africa (mainly the Horn of Africa), South Asia, and Europe (mainly Russian). Yemen is one of the poorest countries in the Arab world and receives aid from many Western and Gulf countries. Yemen remains underdeveloped and remote, especially in the countryside where 80% of its population takes residence.
The architecture is quite varied from region to region and from city to city, but most of what I've seen has been unlike anything else I've come across in my travels. Sana’a, Shibam, and Zabid are listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. Most Sana’ani houses feature a mafraj (sitting room) on the top floor. Yemenis socialize in the mafraj by talking, listening to music, smoking, and/or chewing qat.
Though Yemen is a developing and modernizing country, it is still a tribal-based, conservative Islamic society. However, given all these elements, it is probably the only such country to welcome foreigners as openly as it does.

The Cat Is Giving Birth In My Room!

"The cat is giving birth in my room!" is the phrase one of the female residents screamed down the hallway the other night around 2am. Remember folks, this is Yemen. There are a bunch of cats that run around the dorms and often sleep with the students. I was with Kyle when the commotion erupted and we both ran up the stairs in time to witness the birth of 3 kittens. Apparently, this specific cat only comes around to give birth in the Markez (the name of the building we live in, which translates to "the center square" in English). Kyle is keeping the mom and kittens in his room for the time being. Momma cat is funny in how trusting she is. Every time I visit she comes to my lap for some love then leaves me alone with her kittens for a good 10 minutes before returning. Free room and no charge babysitting service...no wonder she uses the Markez as her own personal birthing unit. Here are the babies right after they were born (two black and white kittens and one orange).

Unexpected Guest

I came home to my room the other night only to discover that someone else had taken residence without permission. Hiding under a bag I had on the floor was what I later found to be known as a Deathstalker scorpion, a highly venomous little creature that injects a neurotoxin into its prey causing paralysis, coma, fever, and sometimes death. Its native to Yemen and the Middle East, varies in length from 3.5-4.5 inches and is hardy, as scorpions are in general, enabling it to adapt to arduous conditions. This particular species tends to be aggressive and nervous in nature.
After the initial shock wore off I captured my new roomie in a empty water bottle, then escorted him upstairs to show some of the guys. I prefer to live alone so Kyle, one of the boys, eagerly accepted Pierre (as he is now called), who is currently occupying a Tupperware container in Kyle’s room until further notice or until Kyle gets stung. Actually, many people keep them as pets despite the danger in doing so. Here is a picture I took before taking him captive.

Arrival to Yemen

Phase two of what has developed into over a year long trip has officially begun with my start in Yemen. I was a little apprehensive about my new job at first, as I’d hoped to focus solely on human rights, however I wanted to experience life in Yemen after hearing of it to be a place rich in Arab culture and traditions with fascinating architecture and natural beauty. I also sought to be exposed to the lifestyle of an extremely poor country. Yemen has its own set of problems and dangers which drew my fascination, from women’s rights to poverty, from the war in the North to the kidnapping of internationals.
I knew that in order for me to travel to Yemen as safely as possible I would need a framework. Ultimately, my position ended up much more rewarding and relevant than originally conceived. My official title is Student Affairs and Special Programs Coordinator for the Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies (YCMES). I handle two main projects, one being the Zeytun project: a political and cultural exchange program between students in Amsterdam and students in Yemen. I am currently conducting interviews with applicants from Yemen and will soon be assisting a professor in constructing the details of the class “Democracy and Dictatorship in Europe,” which the chosen applicants will attend before traveling to Amsterdam at the completion of the course for a 10 day retreat. I will need to organize cultural events, meetings with ambassadors, visits non-governmental organizations, and other relevant activities for the Yemeni students and those from Amsterdam who come to Yemen. In addition, I am in charge of the general welfare of the international students at YCMES (which means being on call 24/7) and planning all the cultural events (a daily occurrence here) which range from political lectures, cultural discussions, trips on the weekends, Yemeni cooking classes, Arab movie nights, etc.
So far things are going well and I’ve loved spending time with foreign students, all of which are very enthusiastic about Arabic culture and language. Most are my age or older working on their Masters, PhD, or simply studying Arabic. They’ve gone out of their way to introduce me to their Yemeni connections and friendship circles which has allowed me to view the culture here from the inside.
Now that I’m settling in, I am also looking into writing articles for the magazine “Yemen Today” and working as an editor for the local paper “Yemen Times.” Additionally, there is a nongovernmental organization that deals in women’s rights that I’ve also considered volunteering for.
A little bit so far on Yemen: It is amazingly beautiful here in the city of Sana’a; the architecture is stunning! It feels like I’ve traveled back in time a thousand years whenever I look out my window. The people are warm and friendly, though very poor and uneducated. It is definitely more conservative here than in Palestine/Israel and despite the layers of clothing I put on, I still feel like an alien when going out in public. I haven’t gotten sick yet, but I know it’s just a matter of time. The students and staff all say to just let it happen. Apparently it’s a right of passage here as sanitation is less than top notch. Power and water are both a big issue. The power and Internet shut off on a daily basis, sometimes for hours at a time, and water also periodically runs out. Oh, third world countries.