A Return

Post Yemen I continued to do work for MWF via the wonders of the Internet after returning to the US. I never wrote a final blog entry. I ended up staying in Yemen slightly longer than expected, but I guess I never felt the experience really ended and hence, was never able to achieve that moment of retrospection where experiences could be filtered and connected. My time in the Middle East has had two years to process and its digestion will most likely be a lifelong endeavor, one that continues to transform as I do.

I feel the urge to try to wrap it all up even now, but there are no words that can give rightful meaning to the things I saw and participated in, to the people I met, to the places I ventured, and to the immense and indescribable ways in which it all became me. 

Thank you to all those who followed my travels. I'm amazed at the amount of emails I still receive inquiring about my experiences or asking for advice as they set out on their own adventures. Keep 'em coming! 

That first month back to the US was a very difficult time for me. I returned to a group of wonderful people, but people who had no understanding of so much of what my life abroad entailed. More importantly, I went from doing something new, challenging, and risky on a daily basis to being stagnant, and it felt like I was suffocating. The overwhelming anxiety I was introduced to slowly dissipated as the months dragged on, but has never fully left me. 

I got a job bartending, moved to San Francisco, and interned with the International Refugee Committee as a Casework Assistant all the while studying for the GRE and applying to grad schools. This past August, I moved to Washington DC to pursue a Master's degree in International Relations with an emphasis in Diplomacy in the Middle East. And now I find myself following up this blog in the most appropriate place possible, back in Israel where it began. 

My grad school program offers courses over the year in various locations throughout the world so when I heard of the course in Israel titled "the Intersection of Israeli Foreign and Domestic Policy," there really wasn't anything to consider except for deadlines. I came to Av'iel a week and a half early to stay with my former flatmates Dina and Tal and finally got to meet their now two year old daughter, Noga. Staying with them has been refreshing, we just picked up where we left off. 

After Israel/Palestine I will be heading to Morocco to do research under the supervision of AmidEast. I'll be researching why a policy passed in 2004 that elevated the rights of women and gave them legal recognition has not contributed to decreased rates of domestic violence in Rabat. Afterwards I'll head to Mombasa, Kenya where I'll be meeting Kim, my good friend whom I met in Sana'a, who is studying Swahili there for her PhD. Kim and I intend to travel through Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, and Ethiopia before calling it quits for the summer and heading back to our respective educational responsibilities. 

So, then the question remains: should I restart my blogging efforts and if so, should it be on the same blog I created the last time around? That answer remains to be seen. I have to think it over the next few days and decide if I'm up for it again and if round two would be appropriate on the same platform as before. 

Coverage of International Women's Day

International Women's Day fell on March 8th of this month so I covered an event thrown by the US embassy at the National Museum in its honor for Yemen Today. You can read about the event below:

International Women’s Day, Brought to You by Sana’a
On March 8th of every year since its recognition by the UN 1975, women in various regions of the world are acknowledged for their achievements as individuals who are making positive contributions to the welfare and progress of their society. The connotations of this day are significant on an international scale, but for women living in countries where the acquisition of the most basic of human rights is a struggle, International Women’s Day is an emblem not only of what has been achieved, but of what can be.
Nowhere else is this more relevant than in Yemen, where women are making bold strides in the midst of a country that earned the lowest ranking in gender inequality out of the 130 countries cited in the 2008 World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap report. To properly commemorate the occasion the US Embassy co-organized an event with the group Kuni wa Kun (a youth-led initiative) at the National Museum on Monday, March 8, 2010. The celebration centered on the recognition of six outstanding Yemeni women, but also included an art gallery displaying unique pieces either by or in honor of women and women’s rights, in addition to a musical performance.
Doors opened at 8:30am and speeches commenced at 9:00am, beginning with Amal al-Ashtal of Kuni wa Kuni who provided a brief statement on International Women’s Day and its relation to Yemeni society and youth. She was followed by Abdul Aziz al-Jindari, director of the National Museum, who spoke of the status of women throughout ancient history in correlation with the museum’s anticipated exhibit featuring Yemen's ancient queens: Arwa, Balqees, and Saba'a.
Angie Bryan, Deputy Chief of Mission at the US embassy, provided the keynote speech, briefly touching on the history of International Women’s Day and connecting it to women’s rights in Yemen at present. She mentioned areas of concern in Yemen, but also provided examples of progress, citing quotes by United States President Obama, introducing initiatives on the part of USAID, and honoring six women who’ve displayed exceptional leadership and initiative in furthering women’s rights in Yemen with a certificate of "Courage," signed by U.S. Ambassador to Yemen Stephen Seche. The women recognized included:
Nujood al-Ahdal, who was married at 9 years of age to a man three times that who inflicted emotional and physical abuse. She sought human rights lawyer, Shada Nasser, who represented Nujood in court where she was granted a divorce.
Reem al-Numery, at 12 years old, was forced to marry her 30-year-old cousin and was also able to achieve a divorce from the Yemeni Court System.
Tawakul Karman, Chairman of the NGO "Women Journalists without Chains," works in defense of freedom of the press and human rights in Yemen. Additionally, she is the only women out of the 13 members on the "Shura Council" of the Islah party, and the first activist to launch in 2007 the "Phase of Protests and Sit-ins" in Yemen.
Arwa Ali Saeed Abdullah, who at 10 years of age, lost both of her legs in a land mine accident while roaming the hillsides of her city, works with Yemen's Association of Landmine Survivors as an advocate for the victims of landmines.
Fatima al-Agel, a woman who has been striving to defend the rights of disabled girls for more than 17 years, established the first school for blind females in 1995. She founded the Al Amaan Foundation for Disabled Females' Care in 1995 and currently works with some 800 females across Yemen to integrate disabled girls into schools, universities and the workforce.
Jamala al-Baidhani founded the Altahade Association for Disabled Females to help girls with disabilities in Yemen. Despite disabilities of her own, she earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Social Sciences and in 2006, launched the Alesrar NGO for Youth Development, which enlists volunteers to work on behalf of disabled people.
Once the speeches were concluded, Angie Bryan and Abdul Aziz initiated the opening of the art gallery officially by cutting the ribbon draped across the entrance. The gallery held various exhibits, including paintings, miniatures of traditional customs and practices, silver work, and caricatures. The artists featured included:
Jumana al-Shami, Areej al-Eryani, Ali al-Ma’abari, Howaida al-Kibsi, Sara al-Sami’i, Kamal Sharaf, Arwa al-Yarimi, and Nawal al-Mutwakil.

Oh, Yemen

Today was a good day. One that reminded me how much I do love Yemen and how, despite times of frustration, I could see myself living here for a longer period of time than planned.
My friend Marwa had myself, Kim and a mutual friend, Amal, over to her house for lunch today. Marwa pulled out all the spreads and served us a very impressive meal. After which we went to the the only bowling ally in Sana'a (and quite possibly in Yemen) and had a good laugh as we all pulled out our own bowling techniques.
After bowling, Kim and I then headed to a Yemeni professor's home on the outskirts of Sana'a University. Every Thursday from 4-9 he opens his house to Yemeni intellectuals, artists, and the like to join his family and provide a gateway to those in the foreign community. There is conversation, live music, poetry readings, and room for whatever else you care to express. Today there were folks from America, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, France, and Italy. Many continue to appear to the occasion week after week and I understand why. The relaxed atmosphere, opportunity to meet new people, local and foreign alike, the good food (sambosas-warm pastry filled with meat, vegetables and spices, plus date cookies, tea, etc.), provide a cozy surrounding reminiscent of that I get from family and friends at home. People range in age from youth to the elderly with a few children present.
As mentioned in a prior post, I've done well for myself in Yemen in terms of making it a home. I've been able to establish myself in the traditions here, I know the transportation system and general location of things, I've set up a friend base both local and foreign and become secure in the opportunities available to me (journalism, volunteering, tutoring, etc.).
I'm facing the same reality as the one at the end of my stay in Palestine: that I have a supportive and interesting community and life set up for myself, and people, adventures, and opportunities that I'll shortly be leaving behind.
The fact that this time around I will be coming home has been weighing on my mind and while I am in desperate need of a break, I wonder how long I will be able to stay country bound before longing to catch the next wind. I'm already trying to make a possible trip in September to the area as some good friends of mine in Israel will be having a baby this summer, two in Jordan will be getting married at this time, and one in Palestine keeps reminding me of how I didn't have time to properly say goodbye and therefore, owe them a visit.
I'm hoping I can make this happen, especially since I'd also like to revisit Dar Meir Musa in Syria for some spiritual rejuvenation. While I'm so grateful for all the wonderful people that have touched my life in my travels, the geographical distance that will continue to grow in the next week is a big downer.
There is so much to digest, not just from Yemen, but from Palestine and Israel as well. Right now, I'm too preoccupied with closing things up here, seeing friends, and tying off work to allow that to happen. Actually, I don't think its possible to fully let the experience settle as of yet since I'm still in it. The airplane ride back will certainly be an interesting one I'm sure.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to wrap up a proposal to the European Commission, do a little shopping in the Old City, head off to my friend Huda's home for dinner and an Arab movie night, then try to prepare myself for my last day in Yemen.

Yemen Today Magazine Website

It occurred to me that I never put up the link for the magazine I work for as a freelance journalist. This month two of my articles are featured on the main web page of Yemen Today (directly under the rotating pictures to the left) under the labels 7 and 9.
http://www.yemen-today.com/go/

Education in Yemen: A Blank Page

Here's an article I wrote for Yemen Today Magazine on education in Yemen:
It was Aristotle who said, “All who have meditated on the art of governing mankind have been convinced that the fate of empires depends on the education of youth.” Education enables social progress and reform and remains the most reliable catalyst of change. It teaches society to organize its resources and priorities, therefore allowing it to navigate its way in the direction of its choosing. In this day and age, being denied an education is not only damaging to an individual on a personal level, but translates to the society as a whole.
Every nation houses a ratio of individuals that lack a proper education, and while this number fluctuates depending on the area in question, in Yemen, with an adult literacy rate of 54% according to USAID, it seems that those possessing a solid education are the exception, not the rule. In addition to low numbers in participation, especially in regards to females whose attendance rate is only 45% in primary school and 15% secondary school, the quality of the educational content received is also in question.
There are two types of educational systems in Yemen, government funded schools (equivalent to public schools) and non-government funded schools (equivalent to private schools). I spoke with two employees of Shebab Net Radio Station, Mohammed Al-Selwi, Manager, and Sherine Al-Aghabri Assistant Manager and Program Representative, to get some feedback on the educational system from those still closely involved in the area. Shebab Net is an internet based broadcasting company that focuses on a variety of social issues, but puts emphasis on those surrounding education. Mohammed feels there is a significant difference between governmental versus non-governmental schools. “Teachers get paid more so they have money for more resources and are more motivated to teach,” he explained. “There are also more activities, more opportunities to study lab sciences, more libraries and a larger network of computers.” Sherine feels that the “smaller teacher to student ratio and more focused learning environment” are the main differences between the two institutions. Both felt that while parents pay more to send their students to non-governmental institutions, even these schools are decreasing their standards with time.
A teacher at a local governmental Middle school in Sana’a referred to as Khalid under his request to remain anonymous, holds similar views and feels that the corrupt nature of the system is mostly to blame. “Corruption happens in all of the governmental schools, but also in the non-governmental institutions, just in a slightly different way. In most of the private schools there is not an honest educational system, the real goal is investment. You can imagine what kind of education you will get when this is the goal.”
Referring more in depth to the issue of corruption, Khalid continued to explain that the administration that heads his school has little to no experience in their current positions. “The directors of the school don’t have experience; they got their position because they have a good relationship with a shake or figure of authority.” He explained that when he visits most schools he feels as though, “It’s a school for one family from the perspective of administration because the staff and teachers are all from the same family or party or tribe or have a mutual friend of importance. It’s impossible for someone to become the director unless they have a relationship with someone of importance and share the same ideas as that person.”
Khalid, very passionate about the issue, mentioned that in addition to lacking an administration with any experience, the government does not have enough facilities to meet the needs of the students. “The problem is the crowded schools, imagine if in one class there were over 100 students. How can 100 students learn in 40 minutes or from one teacher?” Khalid continued to explain that under such circumstances, both he and the students get frustrated with one another as he wants the students to be attentive and engaged while the students, young and without a proper structure, just want to play. He mentioned, “I’m very lucky to only have between 50 and 54 students in my class.” Apparently, because his school is one of the higher ranking in Sana’a, they are able to attain more government support than most, allowing them to have reduced class sizes in comparison to other schools.
Sherine and Mohammed from Shebab Net only supported Khalid’s statements. “Not all the teachers are experienced in what they teach; they need to be more qualified. In Yemen, it’s like anyone can teach with no real qualifications,” reported Sherine. In addition to the lack of qualifications and experience, she continued to tell me that often, teachers are suppose to teach a certain amount of material within a designated time frame, such as a certain amount of chapters in the class book per year, but often fail to meet this standard. Mohammed added that, “There’s no one monitoring teachers in the school system here so they don’t do their job since no one is there to keep them in check.”
Teaching methods in Yemen or lack there of, often require youth to educate themselves, but with limited resources and motivation, the results are not uplifting. “In middle school science books,” Sherine described, “there’s no information inside of them. There are mostly pictures and questions, but when the students ask the teachers about the missing information they say it’s intended to be this way because the teachers want the students to go and look for the information themselves, but this isn’t always possible.”
Furthermore, when students do get the opportunity to learn, teaching methods fail to take a hands on approach. “Subjects like computer science are taught with books instead of actual computers due to a shortage of supplies,” explained Mohammed. “One month, when I was attending Abdul Nasser High School, ranked as one of the best schools in Yemen, we only had one lab science class a month and when we did finally go, we didn’t do anything. The lab was exactly the same as the normal science class.” He emphasized his frustration with the inadequacy of the school system in Yemen by telling me how he was helping his nephew with his math homework and realized the math book he was learning from hadn’t been updated in 21 years.
Concerning as this information may be, these experiences are coming from individuals that reside inside Sana’a, a well developed city in Yemen compared to the structure that exists in the rural areas, where 80% of the population takes residence. If resources and teaching qualifications are suffering to this degree in the city, it can only be assumed that the problems are magnified in areas where communication, transportation, and resources are in greater scarcity.
Overwhelmed by the large obstacles which seem to permeate the school system in Yemen, I moved on to the more focused issue of school supplies, asking Khalid if schools provide books for students. “Not always,” he answered, “A lot of students complain that they don’t have books. At beginning of the school year all the students pay a small sum covering registration fees and books, however not all receive the books they pay for. Often, if students register late then they won’t receive books.” He estimates that around 15-20% of students don’t receive books and must buy from outside sources, but this is expensive and not usually feasible. In Sherine and Mohammed’s experience, they usually had to buy their books from outside sources which, was often expensive and the books could be a challenge to locate.
Other issues, such as parental support, are also a factor. Khalid feels that in general, parents want their students to get an education. Sherine partially agreed, stating that, “If parents are educated then they’ll push their children to receive an education as well. If parents aren’t educated they tend to only encourage their sons to go to school until they can read and write, but after that school is no longer seen as important. I feel this has encouraged youth to not care about education.”
In addition to all these factors, Sherine and Mohammed informed me that if a student doesn’t do well in school and can’t get into a college because their grades aren’t adequate, that student can buy their way into a university. Apparently this is a common occurrence which negatively affects the caliber of University participants as well as the general academic atmosphere while decreasing competition. Mohammed furthered this point by saying that “Because of this, often people in high positions, such as doctors and engineers, don’t really know what they’re doing. As a result there’s a lack of trust between the community and these educated professionals.”
Khalid told me that, “A country’s educational system is like a headline for the society as a whole. If there’s a decent educational system, there tends to be good health care, security, and so on also in place.” If Yemen’s overall progress in its various sectors of society is any reflection of the success of its educational system, then education is screaming for attention. Is anyone listening?

Navigating Yemen

In the event that you or someone you know might visit Sana’a in the near future, here’s a little info on the public transportation system in Yemen. Basically, there are two options for maneuvering within the city: taxis and dubabs.
A taxi is self explanatory in its title. In Yemen, most taxis are white with yellow painted onto all four corners of the car. This color taxis does not have a meter or “ad-dud” so you have to barter for a price. Other taxis with a meter come in red and yellow or completely yellow. The bonus of a taxi with a meter is usually they know the location of the place you want to go.
Let me explain that most taxi drivers only work as such part time, most work in other fields, but are either unable to find employment in their profession or only do so part time because their profession alone is not a substantial income so those lucky enough to have the means will drive a taxi.
Red or completely yellow taxis work for companies (whereas as yellow and white taxis are self employed), so they tend to have a better conception of where things are. I never take these however, since most of the time the meter has been tampered with so you end up getting overcharged.
If you’re a foreigner and you barter with a yellow and white taxi, the driver will almost always try to overcharge by at least double. This is why I barter before getting into the taxi, never after. A ten minute cab ride usually costs around 200 rials (though sometimes you have to make more that one attempt) or about $1.00. A 15-20 minute cab ride will cost around 250-350 rials ($1.25-$1.50).
Some cars will say they’re taxis, but have no color distinction. These are not taxis, do not get in them. Some cars will also try to pull over with a driver and another person (man) in the front seat. Whether they have a color distinction or not, do not get in them.
A dubab is a minivan (a very mini van, just an fyi) that is as close to a bus as you’ll get in Sana’a. They will pull over at any point and are labeled by color, number, and area (for instance Bab al-Yemen, etc.). Their exact route, however, will only become known when you become a frequent rider as the streets of Sana’a are a maze and so are the routes they take. The typical dubab price is 20 rials (10 cents) and it will take you a far distance. You do feel somewhat like a sardine as these minivans will cram as many people inside as possible.
As a foreign woman I get a little more leeway, but normally Yemeni women sit together without men next to them and in the back of the minivan. I found this statement funny after writing it because it makes it seem like there’s a proper front and back to these dubabs, but there isn’t.
I try to take dubabs as frequently as possible, but sometimes my destination is either unknown to myself (especially for when I do interviews for Yemen Today Magazine) or not on a main road in which case I’m forced to take a taxi. Either way, in Sana’a, your destination is never that far away, though it may be well hidden, but ask enough people and eventually you’ll get where you need to be.

A Culture of Corruption

Here's an article on corruption I finished for the Yemen Today Magazine, for those who are interested:

Corruption, in its various forms and degrees, drifts through the fabric of nations without prejudice, its dynamic nature making it just as hard to define as to quantify. Vague definitions include that such as the one provided by Transparency International as, “the abuse of entrusted power for private gain.” Merriam-Webster defines corruption simply as, “the impairment of integrity, virtue, or moral principle.” While these definitions require more detail to do the concept justice, citizens of Yemen are well aware of its meaning. I have yet to run into a Yemeni that does not believe that corruption is a rampant component of their society.
I consulted Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami, Vice Chancellor at the International University of Technology Twintech, an economist and vice Chairman of Non-governmental of Adviser for the Republic of Yemen, to gain more insight into what appears to be a culture of corruption. Hearing stories from the Yemeni people and witnessing, myself, acts of corruption on such a frequent basis, I addressed the issue of its prevalence to Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami. “You can’t have figures on corruption, only judgments so it’s a difficult concept quantify.” He does believe that there is a direct correlation between poverty, a low standard of living, and corruption. “There’s no doubt corruption is widespread in Yemen due to the low standard of life and low wages. People desire a higher standard of living so they seek out alternative resources and use their position to manipulate others.”
To emphasize how difficult it is to measure corruption, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami discussed the newly created Anti-Corruption Committee in Yemen. The committee is supported by the World Bank and includes 16 members of civil society organizations from surrounding governorates including Sana’a, Aden, Taiz, Marib, Shabwah and al-Jawf. “While there have been many complaints presented to this committee, we have no cases from them to the court to this day. This is because this is very difficult issue to fight when the standard of life is low and enforcement of the law is not implemented.”
Yemen is the poorest country in the Middle East with 40% of the population living under the poverty line (CITE). The World Bank cites only 40% of the population has access to electricity, though this decreases to 20% in rural areas where nearly 80% of the population takes residence. Unemployment rates have reached 35% and the youth pool is rapidly growing at an average birthrate of 6.7 children (Médecins Du Monde). The GNI per capita in Yemen is $870 and will only continue to be negatively effected as oil revenues are on the decline due to both global issues effecting changes in pricing and the depletion of the reserve itself. With all these factors taken into consideration, no resource to replace oil profits, a water crisis, a power shortage, and an array of other issues stunting its progress, there’s no denying the critical situation Yemen faces and the reality that poverty and corruption could also be on the incline.
These obstacles are overwhelming and while they have been mounting over the years, the poverty inflicting the country is nothing new. “Yemeni society has been suffering from poverty for centuries,” emphasized Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami, “and when it exists for extended periods of time it changes the people, it makes poverty a part of the culture. People are fighting to survive and you can’t change this mindset unless you change the phenomenon itself.” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami spoke of the affect it has on a son to watch his father struggle throughout his life in order to make a living to support his family. Whether this is achieved through legal means, illegal means, or not achieved at all, it has an affect on his children who do not benefit from nor positively reflect the often shameful channels taken in the interest of survival. Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami feels that this scene has become the norm in Yemen and is eating away at its humanity.
People have an idea of what their life should look like and if the reality does not match the image they often resort to other means to elevate their conditions. This occurs more frequently in difficult economic situations and tends to breed unethical behavior, though the person directly involved most likely does not view their actions as such, but as a means of survival in an environment that offers no other option.
Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami expanded on this concept. “I presented, years ago, a lecture to the donor community on the market of terrorism in Yemen and one of my arguments was that we have more than one billion poor Muslims seeking normal employment, but if they don’t find it in the regular market and someone offers them another opportunity, even if its illegal (pertaining to drugs or terrorism, for instance), he will take it.” He explained further, “Salaries are low paying, unemployment is high, families have at least five children, add qat to the mix and you get the reality of the situation here.”
In continuation, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami explained that this behavior occurs in governmental and non-governmental institutions and that because the law is not enforced such activities are customary. “Yemenis are religious people and they know when they are doing something immoral, even if they believe they have no other option,” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami concluded by adding that “Ethics do not come into play until after a secure system has been established.” Considering this, one has to wonder the extent to which this affects the psyche of an individual; to be forced into behaviors one looks down upon in order to secure a place in society.
So what is the solution? I asked Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami with a half formed smile, aware of the magnitude of what I was asking. “Change the environment of poverty,” he responded, wearing a smile of his own. “Some people think we must start with the political framework, I believe political change needs an infrastructure first. There needs to be an infrastructure for democracy, otherwise it becomes easy to manipulate and can turn against change itself. This is what happened in Yemen. Many people in the parliament are uneducated and tribal. These people have power and drive the laws and norms so how can change happen?” Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami feels that overthrowing the government has been a tactic of the past, but has failed to change society in the long term. “My research has shown that changing people’s economic situation will change their life overall. This creates a modern infrastructure for real and prospective change. Once things like education and health care are strengthened, the rest will follow and a structure of law will develop.”
While Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami raises good points, it is overwhelming to think of the extent to which this change would have to manifest itself. In addition to the issues already listed, there are other hindrances to development. Isolation of the rural community due in part to the lack of infrastructure is one element, accompanied by a deficiency in developed social services. The widespread use of qat creates its own set of challenges for Yemen. Exhaustion of water reserves is already a concern, but the cultivation of qat only intensifies the problem, consuming a troubling one third of extracted groundwater. Qat also contributes to increasing health problems and an overall decrease in productivity.
I’d heard rumors circulating that many Yemeni institutions intentionally keep the salaries of their educated employees low in order to maintain a standard of corruption. If those in the lower levels of an institution are forced to pursue illegal venues for financial gain, then it protects those at the top from persecution of their own illegal activities. While I have not been able to sufficiently explore this notion, I did present the idea to Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami. “No, I don’t believe that this is the case,” he replied, getting straight to the point. “Yemen’s GDP is 23 billion for a population of 22.4 million; the Yemeni government simply can’t provide decent salaries for people. When you take the government budget and compare it to the amount of government employees, they are unable to make satisfactory salaries for citizens. I don’t think the government is intentionally giving out low salaries to drive corruption because the government can’t offer high salaries due to the limited resources.”
While corruption is not unique to Yemen, Dr. Mohammed Al-Maitami stresses that because of Yemen’s dwindling resources, or the “small pot from which to pull from,” the effect of corruption is felt more significantly. Though Yemen is not alone in its plight between poverty and corruption, is there a point where the two become so saturated into society that the line dividing what is corrupt and what isn’t becomes unrecognizable by the people themselves? If so, Yemen is not yet there and my interactions with those who believe in a more sustainable future give faith that the extreme poverty and corruption that have infected the country will one day be dissolved.